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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

mpt^SJ;i/>p^i\fi0r}^. 

:\V74 ■ 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2010 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/wheretospendwintOOwine 



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BROWN BROTHERS & CO., 

59 WALL STREET, 

211 Chestnut St., Phila. IffZSV^ YORK. No. 66 State St., Boston. 

AND 

ALiKXAl^DER BROWi^ & SONS, 

Cor. Biiltiiiiore ;iiid Culvert Streets, Kaltimore. 



BUY AND SELL BILLS OF EXCHANGE 

ON 

GREAT BRITAIN and IRELAND, FRANCE, GERMANY, 
BELGIUM and HOLLAND, 

I'liii Ssmmiieki mi tmmhm^ Bfiiik, ii Stiillag, 

AVAILABLE IN ANY PART OF TFIE WORLD, AND IN FRANCS, FOR USE IN MARTINIQUE 

AND GUADALOUPE. 

Make Telegraphic Transfers of Money, 

Between this aud other Countries, through London and Paris. 

Miike Collections of Drafts drawn .abroad on all points in the Unitei 

States and Canada, 
And of Drafts drawn in the United States on Foreign Countries. 



To Travelers. — Travelers' Credits issued either against cash deposit- 
eel or satisfactor}' guarantee of repayment: In Dollars, for use in the United 
States and adjacent countries; or in Founds Sterling, for use in any parji of 
the world. Application for credits may be addressed to either of the above 
houses direct, or through any first-class Bank or Banker. 



SHOWN, mm i co,, shown, mm i co„ 

26 Chapel Street, Liverpool. Founder's Court, Lothbury, London. 



WHERE TO SPEND THE 

Winter Months 



A BIRDSEYE VIE^VS^ 



OF A TRIP TO 



im: E ih: I o o. 



VIA HAVANA. 






HKW YORK: 

M. WINEBURGH & CO., 35 & 37 BEAVER STREET 

1880. 



Eutered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880, by 

M. WINEBUKGH, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 



F \z^^ 

.\V7b 



Ilsley & Marx, Steam Printers, 
94 Fulton Street. 



PRELUDE. 

We take pleasure in offering these lines to the traveling world. They em- 
brace useful instructions in relation to the most agreeable and economical 
method of traveling between New York and Mexico, via Havana. 

The late visit of the Chicago merchants and also that of Gl-eneral 
Grant, has caused a greater interest among Americans in that country. 
The discovery of several very rich mines and the renewed efforts of railroad 
schemes have directed much attention to our sister Republic. For the past 
few years a large number of Americans have visited the city of Mexico, and 
it is probable that every year will bring that sunny land of plenty into greater 
favor with tourists and pleasure seekers. But to the ordinary American, Mex- 
ico is a terra incognito. Every one has some misty recollections of Montezuma 
and Cortez, of Iturbide and Maximilian; of wonderful prehistoric ruins and 
Eldorados hidden by a conquered race. But unfortunately the difficulties and 
modes of travel are unknown to the average tourist, and the means of find- 
ing out the necessary information, which has not until now been published, 
has caused many sightseers to abandon a delightful trip. The uncertainty 
that prevails in regard to the government and the supposed want of adequate 
protection have prevented- the tourist from visiting a country which may truly 
be termed the promised land of American commerce. The information which 
we intend to give our reader about its climate and productions may not be 
uninteresting even to those who may never visit Mexico. 

An extended experience as a merchant and traveler, and a carefully writ- 
ten note-hook, form the material from wliich this work is compiled. 

To travel with comfort and security, a knowledge of the country we con- 
template visiting, as well as the customs and peculiarities of its inhabitants, 
will be esteemed as valuable. 

Practical experience is our guide; we offer it to our readers; we will point 
out the places of interest and indicate the best manner to reach them. We 
will in short lead our traveler safely around the many reefs, with which in- 
experience so frequently comes in contact. 

M. WiNEBURGH. 



Before we Start. 

If you are going to Cuba procure your passport. This document you 
will obtain in the following manner: Make affidavit before a notary public 
as regards your nationality and description of person, forward it to the State 
Department at Washington, and they will send you one. 

The passport may include more than one person, members of the same 
family, and is necessary before the passage ticket is issued. 

The passport will be vised by the Spanish consul 29 Nassau street, his fees 
are $2.00 gold for this service. Upon boarding the vessel you will hand it, to- 
gether with the passage ticket to the purser who will deliver them to the 
boarding officer upon reaching Havana ; the boarding officer will return it 
to you when you land ; if you are in transit for Mexico no passport is re- 
quired. For tourists the most agreeable and pleasant route between New 
York, Havana and Mexico is that offered by the steamers of Messrs. F. Alex- 
andre & Sons. This company offers superior accommodations and increased 
facilities at more reasonable rates than any other line running to Cuba or Mex- 
ico; itisthe only line which goes direct to Mexico. The accommodations on 
this line of steamers are unsurpassed. The Messrs. F. Alexandre & Sons are 
proverbial for their untiring efforts to give their patrons the greatest amount 
of pleasure and comfort at the most reasonable rates ; the appomtments of all 
their steamers are of the best order, the captains and officers are experienced 
seamen and pay particular attention to the comfort and pleasure of their pas- 
sengers ; the steamers of this line were all built especially for the trade in 
which they are engaged. 

Now let us refer to the baggage ; besides your trunks, take along a 
valise or two, in which place such articles of wearing apparel as you may 
need during the passage (your trunks will be accessible only during certain 
hours of the morning;) trunks, unless of small size, are not allowed in the state 
room, and for comfort it is better not to have them. 

As you are going to the Antilles, a very warm climate, it will not be neces- 
sary to intimate that furs and heavy clothing may be dispensed with. 

The most convenient manner of arranging your cash account, is to invest 
your funds in letters of credit (procurable at our banking houses) reserving 
sufficient to defray your immediate expenses until you reach your first cor- 
respondent or banker in Havana or Vera Cruz as the case may be. 



Letters of introduction are always desirable, and should be procured it 
possible. When we land in an entirely strange place, and are unacquainted 
with its language and customs we are, so to speak, excommunicated from its 
society. A letter of introduction is of material service. The Spanish race, 
as a rule, are hospitable and kind-hearted. They will always receive you 
with open arms when you introduce yourself as a medium of mutual acquaint- 
ance and friendship. 

Leaving the Port of New York. 

If the steamer starts at 3 o'clock P.M. be sure to be on board at 2 P. M. ; 
give your baggage in charge of the porter of the vessel, take your valises to 
your state room, then you may quietly adjourn to the deck, and indulge in a 
segar while viewing the hurried parting scene in which so many excited peo- 
ple figure. Do not forget to fee the steward who shows you to your state 
room, he will remember the attention and you will invest a dollar at profitable 
interest, payable in good services during the trip. 

There is nothing so conducive to comfort as keeping cool. A hurried man 
traveling invariably forgets important duties while attending to matters of 
comparative insignificance. 

The Start. 

The time for departure has arrived at last ; a shrill whistle announces 
the fact that all those who are not to sail, must retire to the dock, where 
they may wave their last adieus to those leaving the port. 

This scene is one of confusion to say the least. Here we have a second 
Babel wherein the confusion of tongues, to say nothing of lips, is conspicuously 
boisterious. The gang plank creaks its displeasure at being burdened in so un- 
ceremonious a manner; it threatens to give way and drop the excited multi- 
tude into a briny bath below. Good bye ! take care of yourself, write soon ! 
Where's my poodle ? Oh ! that dog will be left ! my trunk will not reach here 
in time. ! my ! what shall I do. Ah ! here it comes, thank — &c. In the 
distance we observe an express wagon and a lame horse whose one weather 
eje is trying to pick out one of Mr. Bergh's agents in that motley crowd. 

You, reader, are all right, because you came on board in good time and 
have nothing more to do, but to look on. Have you seen the life saving ap- 
paratus ? Do so, in case of accident it is well to know where to look for help. 
There should be at least two life preservers in your stateroom; see that you 
are supplied in this particular. Upon the door you will find instructions 



regarding the particular life boat assigned to you^n case of accident, take a 
look at the boat. 

At las^ the gang plank is removeu. How many persons remain on shore 1 

There are sad laces too, and moistened eyes, Miss has two diamonds 

trembling upon her dark eyelashes and a young fellow on board is making vain 
efforts to look Dleasantlv at her. 

Handkerchiefs wave a last adieu, and tears render more dim the progres- 
sive, distance which o;oft3 on widenms; between reocrets, hopes and fears. Oft 

she goes down the bay upon her majestic career toward the sunny South new 

scenes and novel experiences. 

At Sea. 

Here we are, gliding upon the broad and undulating bosom of the Atlan- 
tic about 1 200 miles from Havana which we will reach in from 4 to 4^ days. 

Is this your first experience at sea ? In that case you will be struck with 
the immensity of space that lies before you. Cast your eyes in whatever di- 
rection you may, water — water — water — and sky — sky meet your gaze. Keep 
on deck as much as possible and avoid thinking of being sick. In the early 
morn one rises and appears on deck; the first carress of an amorous sun 
spreads its brilliant rays upon the waters of the deep. 

Our gallant craft maintains her 16 knots an hour with the regularity 
of a well regulated chronometer. A distant horizon separates us now from 
home, another one invites us to look beyond its line, and as we proceed on- 
ward the same invitation is repeated indefinitely. We are thus flowing along 
at the dawn of day. 

A gentle breeze ruffles the crystal surface. As we proceed toward our 
journey's end we leave in our wake an effervescent foam which melts away in 
the course of time as do remembrances. Far in the distance a sail is 
seen and now and then a school of porpoises lend a singular movement and 
life in contrast with the calm surface of the ocean. 

After steaming for 25 hours w^e are in the latitude of Cape Hatteras; rough 
weather often prevails in this quarter, although we have passed the Cape 
without experiencing unusual winds or seas, nor their attending discomforts 
and fears. 

In Sight of Land. 

On the third day of our journey, the coast of Florida appears in the dis- 
tance on our right ; it suggests, most agreeably, that in case of danger terra 



firma is within our reach. Men naturally prefer to take risks in a familiar 
atmospliere; land to man is what water is to the population of the brhiy deep. 
All day the Florida coast remains in perspective, and the scene viewed from 
beneath our awnings is exceedingly interesting, especially so to the novice 
traveler. One does not become tired of this panoramic view. Reclining upon 
a comfortable camp chair and enjoying a good cigar, we watch the distant 
shores which recede as we pass them, to make room for new and interesting 
landscapes which appear in the horizon unceasingly, until the veil of twilight 
and the evening mist suggests the approach of night to close the last act of 
our third day's sail. 

The next morning our noble craft enters the port of Havana, one of the 
finest harbors in the world. A fleet of small boats immediately surround us 
and dance merrily upon the white capped waves, as though they were pleased 
to welcome our majestic presence. These boats are to the Bay of Havana 
what the hacks are to that city, with this difference, that the boats solicit 
our patronage, while the hack drivers remain sound asleep upon their boxes 
and await our orders. 

These little boats transport us and our baggage to the shore for a small 
pecuniary consideration. They are not however admitted to board our distin- 
guished decks until the formalities of the law have been attended to. The 
custom house officials and the Board of Health have a prior claim to our 
attention. After the official duties have been performed, the occupants of 
the small boats are allowed to present to us their respects, which ceremony 
they perform in a somewhat eccentric manner. Most of these individuals have 
some Cuban interest to represent; some are hotel agents, each of which claims 
to offer extraordinary advantages over the attributes of a neighbor. The 
Hotel San Carlos or Hotel Pa sage are first class houses, and we can also re- 
commend the Hotel Ingletera and Hotel Telegrafo as respectable resorts which 
are frequented by Americans; the board is $2.50 to $5. 00 gold by the day, or 
$1^ gold for room and meals q la carte. 

If you intend to return to the vessel to continue your voyage to Mexico, 
you need only take with you a valise, which hand to the hotel agent whom 
you have agreed to accompany. Leave all the details of your l:)aggage and 
tickets to the charge of your hotel guide. We have always found it profitalile 
to fee these men, as it secures to us their best attention. If you have any 



baggage thev will pass it without trouble or delay. Tourists in transit may 
remain on board the steamer, rhere'is no extra cJiarge. 

Now we climb down the sides of our steamer and enter the diminutive 
craft which in point of size, when compared to our Ocean Queen, appears as 
a mere nut shell. These small boats are however perfectly safe, being built 
for rough weather and high winds; they have great breadth of beam and stand 
up firmly lo any wind, in fact it maybe said that it is almost impossible to cap- 
size them. 

Once embarked in our little transport, we launch off for the wharf and 
move along at a very fair rate of speed. There is a canvas roof over us which 
aflbrds a welcome shade against the rays of a powerful sun. We are going 
to the custom house dock, to go through an oflBcial examination in relation to 
our baggage; this formality does not occupy much time, and we are very soon 
relieved by the refreshing information on the part of the officers that it is all 
right, no duty to pay as we have with us only such articles as we need for 
our personal comfort. The custom house officers as a rule are both obliging 
and civil, which is not a little acceptable to strangers in a foreign land. They 
examine carefully for all kinds of literature 

We pass the custom house gates and are practically free to act. Here we 
are in Havana; an attractive scene presents itself to our every inquiry. Houses 
of variegated colors and rank vegetation predominate. 

We require a hack; one is at hand, the coachman asleep upon his box, 
our guide wakes his independent lethargy by means of a poke with a parasol, 
and the driver is at our service for the small sum of 40 cents paper (equal to 
18 cents of our money). He obligingly offers to drive us to Kamtschatka, but 
we merely accept his good offices as far as the hotel, where he drives us, bag 
and baggage, all without extra charge. 

It must be observed here that to experience real comfort we should follow 
the customs of the localities we visit. Cubans move about quietly and remain 
cool ; let us imitate their example, for the rapid movements of a New Yorker is 
poorly adapted to the temperature and habits of Havana. It may be difficult 
at first to accustom ourselves to the ways which tropical climates demand, 
but necessity will soon compel us to follow the example of the indigenous pop- 
ulation. 

Havana is built upon a tongue of land, the head of which is braced 
and defended by the heights of Cabanas and the Moro Castle. As usual in 
all old cities the most ancient portion is invariably constructed in old fashioned 
style, narrow streets and small dwellings form a contrast with the more recent- 



10 

ly developed district.s. In the Old Ho.vana {ao U) speak) dwellings, shops, 
warehouses and churches are cramped up in confusion, whereas in the modern 
quarters of the city, the architecture and plans of streets and avenues are in 
conformity with the world's most progressive ideas. The dwellings as a rule 
are only two stories high, but these have ceilings 20 feet from the floors, 
making the height of the houses 40 feet or equal to our three story houses in 
New York. All nationalities are found in harmonious association, and each 
conforming to the laws which nature suggests for the sake of comfort and 
health under a tropical sun. Many of the principal streets of Havana have 
awnings stretched across them. 

A section of the city is abandoned to the Coolies or Chinese slaves; they 
having served a certain term of bonditge in the service of some Cuban plan- 
tation, retire to that part of the city, to finish, with the least possible hardship, 
a life which they commenced under the trying auspices of a semi-barbarous 
regime. 

Havana occupies a territory of about five square leagues or fifteen square 
miles. Its population will reach 250,000. 

In times gone by the city was encircled by massive walls and deep trench- 
es, such as formed the defenses of the ancient European cities. But recently 
all this has been done away with, and Havana has assumed to a considerable 
degree the garb, fashions and manners of the age. 

On either side of the Paseo (an avenue almost comparable to the Avenue 
des Champs Elysees of Paris) we observe handsome dwellings and delightful 
gardens; a profusion of flowers and immense palm trees form a grateful shade 
and spread their perfume through the atmosphere. This avenue is frequented 
by tlie beau monde of Havana. TliousaiHis nf vehicles convey Iho human 
flowers of female propriety to places of amusement or upon social visits. The 
brilliant colors, laces, silks and diamonds contrast charmingly with the more 
substantial physical beauty of the fair donas. 

A Word about Cuba. 

Cuba lies between the latitude from about the twentieth degree north 
to the twenty-third, and between the seventy-fourth and eighty-fifth degree of 
west longitude. Its greatest length is 160 miles and its width varies from 20 
to 135 miles. It embraces 4'7,2l8 square miles. (New York State has 41,000 
square miles.) 



11 

The entire coast line of Cuba is 2,220 miles and is generally dangerous 
to shipping, yet the island possesses over two hundred ports including sheltered 
landings. A range of mountains run its entire length and contain the head 
waters of many streams that flow north and south into the Gulf and the Ca 
ribbean Sea. 

The climate is wavm and dry during tlie greater part of the year, out it is 
more temperate than other countries of the same latitude. The thermometer 
never rises as high as it does in New York. 

In Cuba are found almost all the important minerals. There are two sea- 
sons, the rainy and the dry; the former begins in May and lasts till Novem- 
ber. The products are tobacco, sugar, fruits and hardwoods. The vegeta- 
tion is rich. 

The inhabitants are mostly of Spanish and African descent. The children 
of foreigners born in Cuba and the Southern countries are called Creoles. 
Towards these the Spaniards experience a positive dislike, and that feeling is 
fully reciprocated by the Creoles. In 1862 the population of Cuba was 
1,359,438. A law passed in June 23, 18*73, declared all slaves free, but the 
Government has never been able to enforce it. Besides Havana, which has 
250,000 inhabitants, there are thirteen other cities, twelve towns and 324 vil- 
lages and hamlets. The productive industry is mainly devoted to the cul- 
tivation of sugar and tobacco. Cotton is also cultivated, but not extensively. 
Large crops of the silkworm are yearly raised. Cuba is subject to Spain 
and is governed absolutely by a Captain General. 

A cigar and comfortable chair in al fresco with the news of the day af- 
fords a pleasant pastime during the torrid hours. If you can have a letter 
of introduction to a resident in Havana you may call upon him after dinner; 
you will find him frank, hospitable and polite. The customs in Cuba are very 
diiferent from those observed in the United States in this respect. In Cuba the 
houses are as open as the hearts, and you are welcome to both. Discreet 
people will not abuse this Southern hospitality, and will consequently retain 
the good graces of their generous hosts. 

One of the principal as well as one of the most agreeable and brilliant 
displays to be witnessed by the tourist is the plaza of Havana on a fine 
evening. Here he can behold the life of the city in all its beauty and gaiety 
amidst thousands of gas jets, which seems to defy the sun in brightness, and 



12 

hear delicious strains of music discoursed by a fine military band. Among 
the numerous and splendid Cafes which line all sides tlie plaza youth, beauty, 
aristocracy, and fashion come to spend the evening to partake of a cup of coflee 
or to sip some of the many cooling drinks of which there are plenty and of 
many kinds. The Cubans are very courteous to strangers and it is much safer 
to stroll among the crowds then it would be under similar circumstances 
in New York. A visit to any of the numerous Cigar and Cigarette manufact- 
urers will be found verv interesting. 



Life in Cuba. 

There is still another peculiarity observable in Cuba, not less striking thali 
the dressing of the children. The merchant or storekeeper does not designate 
his place of business by putting his name on a sign over the door or any- 
where on the house; nor does he show by any word or mark that he has 
anything for sale, but it seems he acts or does business on the principle 
that if anybody wants to know where he resides, or what kind of goods he has 
to sell, it is the buyer's and not the seller's business to find out the best way 
he can, when and where such goods are to be had. When I say wJien, I mean 
that if you, after some difficulty, at last find his store, and get there between 
11 and 12 o'clock, you may find the whole business personnel at breakfast, and 
have to wait until they return. From this you may conclude that the mer- 
chant in Havana takes it easy. Others aeain, maintain thnt their house is so 
old that everybody knows or ought to know, where they hold forth, and what 
kind of goods they keep, without thinking that the world moves on, that 
every day new men spring up, or strangers want to find their place of business. 
But as this unreasonable conservatism and exclusiveness is practiced by all old 
and well established business houses^ they are very proud of it. It is exten- 
sively .mitatcd by young and newly established firms, because they, too, want to 
be considered old and above the necessity of telling the public who and what they 
are; and if a long established merchant should venture the innovation to put 
his name over his door it would be considered tliat there was something out 
of order in the premises. It is only the retailers and other small traders who 
condescend to show their names in connection with their 1 usiness. Others 
adopt s(mie lanc}- title or the name of some prominent saint to designate 
their establishment, such as The Golden Eagle, the Espanola, Santa Catalina, 
&c., the same as we in America adopt a trade mark. Anything is considered 



13 

better than their name, wliich they anxiously and studiously try to conceal. 
Tlmt there is but little advertising in newspapers, where the names are shown 
with so much reluctance, is self-evident. 

So things go on in the old rut from one generation to another, and no 
effort is made to follow the laudable example of other countries. It seems the 
Spanish character is quite self-sufladent and will not bend to be taught by others, 
and will not admit a possibility of error. The people are very closely wedded 
to their national prejudices; in fact, Cuba at this moment is probably the most 
old-fashioned country in the world, and it is only when pressed upon by absolute 
necessity that she reluctantly admits an innovation. 

As we pass along in our Victoria (many of these vehicles are used here), 
we have a very general view, not only of the many fine residences but also of 
the inmates thereof. It is customary to sit near the large apertures which in 
New York might be known as windows; glass is not used in these windows and 
a necessity for closing them never occurs in this climate. 

Smoking is not objected to by the fair sex, some of whom not infre- 
quently indulge in a cigarette. The ladies are not given to walking, they 
seldom venture out except in a carriage. The Quitrin or Victoria is the 
popular conveyance in Havana. The fair ones do their shopping in these, 
and the poor clerks and salesmen are compelled to bring their wares to the 
Victoria for their inspection, from which one may easily estimate the activity 
of the former and the good nature of the latter who knows no limit to his 
complaisance. Would it not be a little amusing to witness the same amount 
of condescension on the part of A. T. Stewart's clerks ? And what confusion 
would it not give. 

The Roman Catholic religion prevails almost exclusively; in this particular 
the women are, as in this country, the pillars of the church ; there are no pews 
in the Havana churches, the congregation being obliged either to bring chairs 
with them or remain standing or kneeling during the ceremony ; a small 
cushion is usually brought with the chair. The manner in which Sunday is 
observed (we should say enjoyed), because the Spaniards and French and other 
enlightened people consider it a day of rest from the toils of the week, and 
take the liberty of interpreting rest as they please and not as the Puritans 
chose to prescribe. In consequence of this the Sunday in Havana (as it is 
in Paris) is devoted to amusements and a pleasant relaxation from the arduous 
strain of the week of labor. 



14 

The tlieatres, among which we find the great Tacon, the La Paz 
Opera House and the American Circus are all open on Sundays, as well as the 
Louvre Cafe. The Casino Espailol — a political club of national influence is 
the rendez-vous of the most distinguished men of Havana. Every one has 
heard of the celebrated bull fights of Cuba; this amusement is of ancient 
and national origin. These figlits are held outside of the city limits every 
Sunday. Horse cars run to within a few blocks of the .place which is named 

Plaza de Torros. We rci t to say tliat tliese fights do not stril<o us as ' onducive 

to either refinement or enlightenment; it savors of barbarism ana those animal 
instincts which form the larger half of human nature under all social regimes. 

At some of the leading hotels, sucli as the Hotel Pasage and the Hotel 
Inglaterra, Protestant religious services are held for the accommodation of 
transient guests. 

The Cubans with the enthusiasm of their Latin neighbors of Europe, 
celebrate the great Carnival which precedes Lent. Immense processions of 
masqucraders parade the streets and avenues and form a human kaleidoscope 
of indefinite lights, shades and colors. The entire population appears to be 
wrapped in the pleasure of making a fool of itself, and he is a fool who will 
not follow the people in this whirlwind of folly and fun. 

The Cuban character is a combination of pride, cliivalry, indolence, 
love, hospitality and jealousy. Look out for the old husband of a young wife, 
be careful not to be too demonstrative in your administration of his better and. 
more attractive lialf, for he is as jealous of her as it is possible to be. The 
women in this respect not infrequently commit an involuntary murder by 
encouraging the attentions of young admirers, drawing them closer and closer 
to the dangerous reefs, as did the siren of mythological celebrity. 

The music in Havana is good and as greatly appreciated as it is in the 
United States. During the winter months an excellent Italian Opera Troupe 
is handsomely supported. 

The suburbs of Havana are really charming, composed in great part of 
picturesque country residences where good taste is united to comfort and 
health. A favorite ground for pic-nics is Puentes Grandcs (Big Bridge) .; here 
among other attractions is a fine beach for bathing, and a lew miles up the coast 
are famous fishing grounds. To the eastward the town of Guanabaca is much 
frequented as a summer resort and is noted for its mineral springs. A few 
miles to the west the traveler will be interested in visiting an ancient and mys- 
sterious castle, the dingy architecture of which reminds us of the feudal ages 
and of knight errants of old. 



The waters of the Bay bathe the foundations of this antique relic of the 
past; visitors may reach this old curiosity by taking the steam cars which pass 
out of the Avenue del Norte. 

Among the attractions which are most interesting to the merchant is the 
wharves which are not as extensive as the trade of Havana appears to demand; 
in fact most of the loading and unloading is done by means of lighters. 

The wharves consist of a mile or so of roofed levees to which are moored 
vessels, their bows facing tiie shore and packed like sardines side by side. 

Matanzas. 

The second city in importance is reached by rail in a few hours; it lies in 
the valley of Yamuri, has a population of 40,000 and in most respects resem- 
bles Havana. Good hotels are found in this place. Among the attractions 
the scenery is esteemed as most remarkable for its romantic beauty. The 
Caves of Beliamar and the vallev of Yumiri are visited bv many tourists ; it 
takes two hours by the Havana Bay and Matanzas railroad which leaves Ha- 
vana '^Imost evrry hour. 

The next place of importance is Cardenas, situated on the Northern coast; 
here we find an extensive sugar trade, doing a business of many millions a 
year; which is exported to the United States. 

Cienfuegos may be visited with interest. This city lies upon the louthem 
coast, has a fine land-locked harbor, and is an important factor in the Cuban 
trade; here English is very generally spoken. There are steamers from this 
port to Batabano and recently railroad communications have been made di- 
rect to Havana, running through the sugar districts. There are also steamers 
from Cienfuegos to Santiago de Cuba on the Eastern end of the Island. 

Not far from Cienfuegos is the anqient town of Trinidad, a place well 
worth visiting on account of its scenery. 

We would also recommend a trip to Santiago de Cuba. This town does 
an extensive export trade in tobacco, sugar and coffee and is noted for its ex- 
tensive copper mines; we meet in this place many French people. Santiago de 
Cuba was formerly the capital of Cuba; it is probably the most ancient town in 
the West Indies. Steamers from the United States and Europe touch at this port. 
Those desiring to visit the places to which we have briefly alluded, can 
do so in the space of a month, and returning to Havana will find a transport 
for "M'^xico waiting for them. If the visit is confined to the city of Havana 



16 

the traveler's trunks remain in the hold of the steamer, which stays in port 
two da3s, after which she continues her journey to Progreso. 

Once more we jump in a harbor boat and steer for the gallant craft which 
is getting up steam preparatory to an early start; many a warm shakB of the 
hand intimates to us that we leave kind friends in Havana, and our experiences 
in that city are to be remembered with pleasure. We may not have escaped 
the captivating glance of a dona; perchance there may have been an inter- 
change of sentiments which hold our affections more firmly than we would like 
to admit. At all events our visit to Havana has not passed without interest. 

On to Progreso. 

And now we plow the mighty deep, again resuming our journey to the 
Aztec capital. 

We will not pretend to describe the country we are about to visit 
except in a general manner; volumes can be written upon this topic. The 
limited space to which our Guide is confined, restricts our observations to 
mere outlines. Our traveler's experience as he proceeds will complete our 
rough sketches, we are convinced, to his or her entire satisfaction. Being 
already familiar with life at sea we will not recapitulate its varied phases. 

We reach Progreso after two days journey in the gulf. Progreso is the 
seaport of the city of Merida, the steamer remains there about tweny-four 
hours, thus enabling the tourist to land and visit the City of Merida, twenty- 
two miles distant — a railroad recently built connects Progreso with Merida — 
the capital of Yucatan; the fare is only a few dollars, and the trip will be found 
full of interest. Merida is a beautiful and quaint old city of 50,000 inhab- 
itants, and is reached in about a half hours ride. The market place, which 
occupies an immense square, is situated about two blocks from the Hotel 
and about the same direction from the plaza, it is surrounded by a high 
adobe wall which is plastered on the sides fronting the streets. I en 
tered the wide gate and was instantly surrounded by a crowd of In 
dian market women who pushed their wares almost in my face, and im- 
plored |me in the name of the Blessed Virgin to patronize them. Their articles 
of sale were many and of various kinds: one old octogenarian Indian squaw 
wanted me to buy a coarse cotton chemise, which, she assured me, was 
well sewn, another a very pretty mestiza urged me to buy a small gourd rattle 
or children. 



17 

A very pleasant hour can be spent wandering through the market place; 
the streets of Mei'ida are named from animals and birds, as the Indian popula- 
ation of the city is by no means a learned one, and as so few of them know how 
to read, the figures of the animals stand prominently on street corners to sliow 
the inquiring what street they may be walking on. Near the city of Yalla- 
dolid in the eastera portion of the Peninsula of Yucatan there are about forty 
different ancient towns and cities in ruins, they have all been studied at one 
time or another by scientific men, who have not as yet come to any agreement 
as to their origin. The ruins consist principally of immense buildings which 
must have been used as palaces, temples, and castles, and buried beneath 
them are supposed to be images and other objects which decorated the build- 
ings Avhen the race of people, who built them were in existence. There have 
been many prominent Americans who have visited these ruins, and there have 
been, we believe, a few books written on the subject, the people who reside 
in and about the ruined cities have no legend of their origin. The antiquarian 
who wishes to visit them for purposes of study or curiosity will be amply 
compensated for his trouble. We understand that there are some ingen- 
ious Yankees, who are building a road from Merida to connect with these 
ruins, and in a short time we may hear of a better conveyance to these inter- 
esting cities than now exist; after leaving Progreso, Campeche and Frontera 
are the intermediate ports at which we stop on our way to Yera Cruz. 

In Sight of Land. 

The snow capped summit of the extinct volcano at Orizaba appears before 
us, and yet we are 60 Elites fiom sight of the coast. This majestic apparition 
seems to form a part of the heavens, its hoary locks suggest almost an ante- 
diluvian origin; as we approach, it appears to rise higher and higher in the 
clouds in a truly imperial manner, and one cannot refrain from being deeply 
impressed with the comparative insignificance of its surroundings. 

Pour hours more and we perceive in the distant horizon the first outlines 
of the Yera Cruz coast. Soon we will be in port; the passengers appear well 
pleased. The last moments of a journey are always attended with pleasure. 
Those who have been sick are promptly convalescent and those who have en- 
joyed the trip are also well pleased to change the life at sea for one in which the 
pleasant anticipations of new scenes and strange enjoyments invite bright spec- 
ulation. Curiosity is one of man's most salient characteristics and a change of 
scene is food lor inquiry. 



18 




iSTllEET SCENF IN \EliA CKLl/. 



19 



Tlio port ^of Vera Cruz is Inow distinctly seen. Coral reefs extend in 
a parallel line with the coast directly in front of tiie city, so tliat we are oblig- 
ed to enter tiie port from the North or South. Not far from the shore wo ob- 
serve a small island, it is called Sacrijico. Attacheilto this island is a romance 
familiar to those wiio remomber Prescott's conquest of Mexico by Cortez; here 
the victims of idolatry and barbarism met their death in a somewhat extra- 
ordinary manner. Upon a certain day in each year a youth, selected for his 
beauty and pliysique, accompanied by his four wives, chosen from the love- 
liest Aztec flowers of female propriety, were conducted to the island oUScicrlfico. 
A priest, who combined the disagreeable attributes of an executioner with 
those of a consoler, presented himself He was clothed in blood stained gar- 
ments ; with fiendish dexterity this 
singular Padre cut the young man's 
heart from its quivering frame and 
flung it upon an altar which was 
dyed in the gore of a thousand 
victims. 

We cannot refrain from appreci- 
ating the advantages which the 
present age affords over the un- 
pleasant customs of those days 
and we pass the island of Sacrifico 
thanking our stars and progression 
for living in an age which does not 
ask a greater sacrifice than our 
purse or a temporary discomfort. 

The next point of attraction is 
the walls of Yera Cruz baked to a 
dull pink shade. There they lie to 
the left of us; on our right the fort 
of San Juan de Ulloa lifts its an- 
cient battlements above the reefs 
and remind us of an old lame watch 
dog which remains on duty with 
characteristic fidelity. This fort was 

commenced in 1569, finished in 1633 " " ' -~- - 

INDIAN GOING TO MABKET. 




20 



by' the Spnniards, in whose power it remained until several years after the In. 
dependence of Mexico. It stands upon the spot where Hernando Cortez 
landed (2]st j^pril, 1519); the iort is used as a state prison. 

Kow a number of boats surround our mai'itime conveyance and invite us 
to accept their services to land us individually witli our baggage upon the 
mole, a wharf, of which one alone exists for all puri)oses in the port of Vera 
Cruz; this wharf cousi^^ts of a stone pier substantially built in the ancient style 
of architecture; over this, in rough weather, tlic capricious waves dash ad 
libitum, in a manner which makes the landing of boats almost equivalent to 
their wrecking. 

The houses of Vera Cruz are constructed to meet any emergency and as 
experience is a wise instructor, nothing has been emitted to secure them against 
climatic contingencies to which they arc £cmttimcs subjected. 



Vera Cruz- 




INDIAN GOING TO MARKET, 



The Toetal to Mexican Commerce, 

Consists of about 60 acres. It is 
encompassed by a triangular wall 
20 feet high. The population of 
the city of The 'True Ci'oss is 15,- 
000, of which over 2000 are for. 
eigncrs. The Indian population 
predominates in numbers, the 
Spanish in wealth and influence, 
though the Mexican is a mixture 
of both ; the streets of Vera Cruz 
are narrow. 

Immense flocks of buzzards con. 
stitute the Board of Health and 
do the street cleaning better than 
our health departments in the Uni- 
ted States ; tiiese birds arc highly 
esteemed by the people, more es- 
pecially because of the small cost 
they are to the public funds. 

Five dollars is the fine imposed 
on any one who shoots a buzzard ; 
as this bird is not prized by epicures, 
no one has the desire to hurt them. 



21 



Vera Criiz was founded by the Viceroy, Count Monterey, at the end of 
the sixteenth century. It enjoyed the exclusive privile^ye of receiving im- 
portations on Mexican soil until the Declaration of Independence. The city 
retains all the mirks of apist grandeur, which is duo to its exceptional posi • 
tion, in a commercial sense ; its massive ramparts bear signs of time and 
tempest. At present two-thirds of the Mexican commerce passes through 
this port. 

Prior to 1835 the entire carrying trade from this city to the interior was 
done by mules. I 

Some of the leading houses do a business of from two to tlirce million 
dollars a year and the most infldential are managed by the German, Spanish 
and French element. This is the capital of the State of Vera Cruz. 

Vera Cruz is situated in the 19° North Latitude and 2° East Lon- 
gitude from the Mexican meridian. Among the prominent buildings is the 
Palace. This structure was completed about the year 1627, it is now occu* 
pied by the government and police 
depirtments. There is also the an- 
cient cliurch of San Francisco, a very 
fine structure. 

The Plaza del Mercado is the prin- 
cipal market place ; it cost $90,000 ; 
there is a flsh market Pescaderia, and 
a meat market, Garniceria. The 
Plaza de la Constltucion offers the 
grateful shade and perfume of its lux- 
urious vegetation and is the breath- 
ing spot of the city ; it is a square 
comprising three hundred square feet; 
in the centre a large bronze fountain 
which lends its fresh spray to the 
warm kisses of the torrid breeze and 
modifies its ardor ; a pleasant place 
is this to dream at ease. Vera Cruz 
possesses a school of artillery and an 
arsenal. 

Three hospitals are found in this 




PQLICEkAN. 



22 



city, also a public library. The churches are interesting to visit; among them 
The Chapel of La Pastora, erected in 1T46. The cliurches of Santo Domingo 
— I Merced and San Augustin have been closed ever since the war of reform. 
Some of these structures are used for storing merchandise. A worlchouse, 
the Hospicio de Zamora, affords shelter and occupation to the poor. A well 
organized police department and in most respects the city is well governed. 

We are not importuned at landing by hotel agents as we were in the har- 
bor of Havana; this is accounted lor by the fact that there are but few first 
class hotels in the place. The Hotel Dillegencias and the Hotel Veracruzano 
are managed by our hospitable friend Dr. Juan who is proverbially attentive 
to his guests and an excellent caterer. The fare at these hotels is very good, 
the charge, room with meals and wine, is $2.50 per day. 

There are always many "cargadoras" on the look out at the mole. These 

porters will seize your baggage sepa- 
rately, each taking a light charge, and 
you will be obliged In pay any one 
who renders you the slightest service. 
For this reason it Avill be advisable to 
place your entire baggage in charge of 
the boatman and agree u])nii a price. 

On leaving Yera Cruz lor ihe city of 
Mexico, your baggage will be scut from 
your hotel, and you will procure your 
checks and tickets, (the fare being $16 
for first class, $12 for second class and 
$8 for the third class). The trains leave 
at J 1 P. M. The left hand side of the 
car is the best for sight-seeing. Take 
upon your arm a heavy overcoat or 
shawl, as you will need it upon reaching 
the high lands. 

After having reached our hotel and 
made the necessary disposition with re- 
^i'v^'^^-^'^g^^'^l to o"^" baggage, &c., the best thing 
r^.?-'»Cv 3. -->■'-■'- --'-■'■ " '^-^ to do is to take a bath; there is nothing 

PUBLIC POKTER. SO invigorating and pleasant as a bath 




23 



after a sea voyage. We enjoy ours in a bath tul) constructed of blue and 
other colored glazed tiles, after which we are prepared to take in every inter- 
esting and novel phase of our new quarters. Looking from our window up 
and down the avenue upon which our hotel is situated, we behold a singular 
diversity of architecture of color and material; old fashioned cupolas appear 
on many houses and tiled roofs are the vogue. There are many porches, and 
white or colored curtains float upon them as screens to hide a Mexican maid- 
en's blush or the inquiring glance of an admiring stranger. 

Along the streets perambulate strange men of stranger liabits, tlieir move" 
ments are adapted to the climate, they move about quite leisurely and never 
appear to be behind time. Strings of mules laden with all manner of mer- 
chandise or driven in carts, the sides of which are composed of netting, lend 
a busy action to the scene; the driver is dressed in a skin jacket braided with 
silver cord, wears high buff boots, a large gray sombrero bound with silver lace 
and cord, a blood-red rayah or waist-belt which forms a bright contrast with 
the surrounding greens and whites. Here and there velvet eyed senoritas are 
peeping at us through the 

gaily striped awnings of their " ll ^~ — -^ i 

balconies. The ladies indulge 
in cigarettes and do not hide 
their taste in this respect. 

Reclining in their hammocks 
or in cane chairs, the daugh- 
ters of Vera Cruz shine through 
the curling smoke of a fragrant 
tobacco and laugh at los Amer- 
icanos who gaze upon this 
charming picture with admira- 
tion for the women and sur- 
prise at the cigarette. 
Let us go to the market place ; 
behold the brilliant assortment 
of vegetable colors, the bright 
yellows, the greens, the reds 
and purples shine in the same 
light or are modified by the 
shade of a large parasol an 
awnino; or a slied. 




TOETILLA MAKEE. 



24 



The Indian women stretched upon mats m a nonchalant pose, watch their 
stock of red popper-pods, tortillas, granadas, or cocoanuts, melons and other 
fruits. 

Ranchcros dismounted from their little dapper horses are engaged in 
marketing. In the open air are shoemakers busily at work ; passing by com- 
mercial houses we see merchants and trades people negotiating. Tliere is 
not a more enterprising set of business people in the country than can be 
found at Vera Cruz. Tliere is very little work done by day, but at night and 
far into the morning they can he seen hard at work by candle light. 

The Galle Oentrale is the principal thoroughfare; through it passes a 
horse railway, the fare is a 7'eal twelvc-and-a half cents. One street runs 
parallel with the Calle Centrale the entire length of the city (about a mile), 
and two shorter ones fill out the arc that the rear wall makes. Eight or ten 
cross these at right angles. A bird's eye view of the city reminds us of old 
Biblical pictures of ancient cities. 

One is amused at the sin' 
gular names upon business 
signs: such as "El Phobre 
Diabolo," (the poor devil), 
another is "Bueno, Bonito, 
Barato" (good, pretty, cheap). 
We do not find any hacks ; 
there are no ready convey- 
ances except "shank's marc;" 
even the fair sex have to foot 
it. In fact there is not much 
perambulation going on any- 
how. Were it not for the 
mules and asses this city 
would be a second Venice. 
For cleanliness Vera Cruz is 
proverbial, the streets are 
cleaner than many American 
boarding house tables; the 
baths are unsurpassed. 
Sunday is enjoyed here in a sensible^^manner (in the Latin style), not ob. 
served in the old Puritan way. 




WACiONER. 



25 



A stroll to the cemetery may be interesting, the way leads over the 
almeda or short bridge, across a small stream which is lined with young 
cocoanut palms. It was here Oortez 
once built a bridge ten feet or so long tor 
which he charged the Government $3.- 
000,000, nearly as bad as the Tweed ring. 
The "Street of Cin-ist" leads out half a 
mile to the Campo Fonto. The walls 
of this grave yard are high and deep, 
tall obelisks stand at their corners. 
These walls are vaults and contain the 
sleeping remnants of what was once 
humanity. 

As we proceed on our way to Mexico, 
in some places we climb four thousand 
feet iu the space of less than 30 miles. 
Away we go, over the deep go^'ges of 
the mountains, on the one side we can 
almost touch them, on the other, thous--^^ 
ands of feet suggest the necessity of ^' 
traveling with caution. 
deed a fine piece of engineering. A Fair- 



lie engine (with an American or English ~ ^^^^^^ri^'^^^^^E^C 



This road is in-*-' "'.•,^^:/^ 




FRONTIERSMAN. 



engineer) is pufBing away and pulling its 

very best. This form of engine is well 

adapted to the present hard work and steep grades ; the tender is placed 

on top to add weight to the driving-wheels. The first-class coaches are like 

those used in Europe and very comfortable. Each coach wiU seat eight persons. 

The first concession for the construction of a railroad from Vera Cruz to 
Mexico was granted on the 22d of August, 1 837, but all manner of impediments 
prevented it from being completed until 1872, when it was solemnly inaugu- 
rated in the presence of the then President Lerdo de Tejada. The road is 
now known as "La Compania del Ferrocaril Mexicano." Thus it took 36 
years to complete this railroad. Forty presidents served during that time, 
also one emperor, and it cost the government $12,573,695.00. 

On leaving the depot at Vera Cruz the line cuts through the fortifications 
of the city, crosocs the'Boulevard de Santiago, passes in sight of the Almeda, 



26 



the Vera Cruzian promenade, the cemetery or Casa Mata, then across the la- 
goon of Cocas, near the spot where the Vera Cruzian defenders surrendered to 
General Scott in 1847, then making a sharp turn runs straight some nine 

miles to Tizeria, the altitude of which 
is 106 feet above Vera Cruz. The 
ascent irom Vera Cruz to the city of 
Mexico by rail has been attended with 
almost exceptional difiBcullies, yet, as 
we see,tlie feat lias been accomplished. 
Before reacliing the central table 
lands, tlie raih-oad climbs three im- 
mense natural steps which have to be 
mounted : the first from Vera Cruz to 
the loot of the Chiquihuite mountain, 
the second to El Infiernillo, and the 
third to Boca del Monte, a distance 
of 1 Y2| kilometres from Vera Cruz and 
a total ascent of 7,924 feet above the 
level of the sea. One of the ravines, 
most difficult to cross, was that of 
Metlac, situated between Cordova and 
Orizaba. Trains commenced running 
from Vera Cruz to Orizaba, on the 5th 
of September 1872. thanks to the in- 
defatigable energy of the engineer 

corps, of which Ner Buchanan was the chief. 

As regards engineering the Vera Cruz rail-road is unsurpassed, and the 
grandeur of scenery along its route will remain in our memory as an ex- 
ceptional and admirable picture ; one can scarcely form an idea of this glori- 
ous panorama, rising as we do from the rippling waters of the shore, which 
chant their melodies through shells and pebbles, we glide away upon the 
even rail through forests of fragrant vegetation and gigantic trees, and then 
through caves into the bright sunlight. Now passing over a marvel 'of 
architecture, that unites two prominent points, and overcomes the almost un- 
surmountable depths of ravines, which bathe their flowers in serpentine 
rivulets below, and then away we fly into the clouds to gaze upon nature in 
minature : at times our heart is in our mouth, while casting a glance into 




CAVALKYMAN. 



27 



indefinite chasms. As we approach the city of Mexico, we are met by an 
express agent, who will take charge of our baggage, keys and checks, and 
give us a receipt therefor ; his charge is twenty-five cents per package, and 
he will deliver our affairs at our hotel ; these agents are entirely responsible. 
Among tlie best hotels in the city of Mexico, we find the Hotel IturMde, (the 
late pa'.ace of the Emperor Iturbide), this is the finest hotel in the city, and 
contains about 400 rooms, th,e rate of board being from fifty cents to three 
dollars a day, meals a la carte. The restaurant is kept by Dn. Carlos Reca- 
mier, and an excellent repast costs but one dollar, and arrangements can 
be made with the restaurant by 
the week. This hotel is the re- 
sort of Americans ; the attend- 
ance is good and the proprietor 
always on the qui-vive for the 
comfort of his guests. The hotels 
Gillow, San Carlos, Bella Union, 
and National, are also to be re- 
commended; they are situated 
on prominent thoroughfares and 
as in the majority of cases in the 
city of Mexico, the meals are a 
la carte, the attendance good, 
and prices moderate. Our trav- 
elers must not forget that here, ^_ 
as in Cuba, the servants expect 
a fee; it insures better service^ 
and every body subscribes to 
the custom (un medio), about 
six cents of our money is a suit- 
able fee. In Paris some rcstau- 

rants pay their hands entirely SEKVANT. 

by fees, if a waiter receives any money he deposits it in a large money box, 
every evening the proprietor declares a dividend in proportion to the number 
of servants and extent of the cash in the fee box. 

Montezunema was particularly fond of a certain fish (the red mullet); 
he had them brought to Mexico city by means of slaves, who would run very 
swiftly in short relays irom Vera Cruz. This fish is very highly'prized bv epi- 




•28 



cures, it is in fact very delicious, and the Mexicans understand how to prepare 
it. Tiie red mullet is to Mexico what terrapins are to Philadelphia. 

The City of Montezuma. 
Those who remember Prescott's work the Conquest of Mexico by Her- 
nando Cortez, will recognize in our sketches the premises at least of our 
travels, they will recall to mind those interesting pages in which the great 
author dwells upon Aztec grandeur and Spanish conquerors. 

But here we will deal with 
present scenes and issues, and 
consign to our leisure moments 
that which the past has consum- 
mated. The Mexico of to-day, 
is our present subject. This 
promised land of our American 
commerce embraces an extent 
of 856,000 square miles, equal to 
France, Germany and Austria, 
added together. Its population 
is 9,000,000, its resources inex- 
haustible, its climate diversified 
and its commerce restricted to 
the limits of a small carrying 
trade. 

When railroads have been laid 
throughout Mexico the exports 
from that country will surprise 
the world. Within a few years 
only have the Mexicans shown 
their disposition to embark large- 
ly in extensive pursuits. The 
valley in which the city of Mexico stands is 45 miles long, 35 miles wide, and 
containing 700,000 inhabitants; the temperature fluctuates between 70° to 
50° Fahrenlunt. The longest day is thirteen hours and fifty minutes; the 
population of tlic city of Mexico is 250,000. 

Let us take ourselves to our Hotel, after making a change in our ap- 
parel and refreshing oursfilves as best we caii,^a|stroll down the Calle Plate- 




WAITER. 



•29 



ros may not be uninteresting ; this is the Broadwaj ot Mexico, and we 

would add that it resembles the New York Broadway in one particular 

alone, which is, that the way is not broad at all. 
This street leads from the Al- 

meda to the Plaza llayor, there 

is at nil hours great activity upon 

this thoroughfare, on either side 

of which very irregular archi- 
tecture is spread from the aris- 
tocratic mansion blue-tiled, gold- 
balconied, scarlet-blinded, to the 

dingy flat roofed, two storied 

stone front. Each block has a 

different name. The Calle Pla- 

teros or rather the street which 

bears this name and a thousand 

others in company is lined 'with 

stores, which have a second class 

Parisian appearance, the goods 

exposed therein bear the French 

trade mark in a majority of in- 
stances. Here we find the Cafe 

Concordia^ the "Delmonico of 

Mexico; we stop a moment to ;:^^ 

refresh ourselves with a sorbet 

or a cobler. 
At the corner of the streets 

Indians in picturesque costumes 

offer to sell us large bouquets of violets, we should say an immense bouquet, 
for the small sum of 25 cents, where in New York the same would cost not 
less than $10. The ladies here seldom venture in the street on foot; they 

drive a shopping and visiting. 




VENDEE OF EEFEESHMENTS. 



The Population. 

We find that the Indians are by far the best part of the population. 
After the whites, there are three distinct classes: 



30 



First, the wliitcs descended from tlio original Spaniards, or from French, 
German, or Enghsh ancestors ; second, the pure Indians ; and thirdly, the 
Mestizos, or mixed race, who constitute tlie laborino: class. Estimating the 
present population at 10,000,000, the whites will probablj^ number 2,000,000 
_20%— , the Indians 3,500,000—35%— and the Blestizos 4,500,000—45%. 
The Indians belong to various tribes and differ as much among themselves 
in every peculiarity as do the Anglo-Saxons from the Latin race. 

The Indians of the cities are low and brutal, constantly drunk. In some 
parts of the country, however, they are hard working and industrious, neat 
in their person and sober in their habits. In the mining districts they prove 
by far the best hands and command the highest wages, they are very religious 
and supei'Stitious and they appear to blend in their articles of faith the 
Christian and Pagan dogmas in a most singular manner. 

It is an unlbrtanate fact that the white 
and Indian elements are rapidly becom- 
ing numerically less, while the Mestizo 
element is increasing. The Indian women 
are wonderfullyaddieted to maternity and 
commence these duties as early as 14 
years of age, but notwithstanding their 
prolific peculiarities, the Indian element 
is rapidly dying out through the ravages 
of various diseases, exposure, bad nour- 
ishment and hard work. Of the Aztec 
arts and sciences nothing remains, ex- 
cepting the manufacture of feather birds 
and rag-statues. The manner in which 
the Indians pluck the feathers from live 
birds would inspire our philanthiopical 
friend Mr. Bergli with a sanguine in- 
dignation. 

Tlie Ilestizos constitute the producing 
or agricultural element, the small shop- 
keepers, the politicians, they are gener- 
MEXICAN SERVANT. ally undersized, with copper colored skins 

and straight hair. They possess neither the energy of the whites nor the 
working qualities of the pure Indians, they are inordinately fond of /'at^we. 




31 



the national beverage, pulque \s to the Mestizos wh^t lager \s to the Germans; 
it is distilled from the Maguey plant, has the color of tliick milk and is not bad 
to take when one becomes ac- 
customed to it. It costs a mere 
song, something like 6 cents a 
gallon, and even at that price 
there is a fair profit in the sale; 
for this reason the most fertile 
and productive lands are given 
up to the culture of the Maguey. 
This plant often takes 10 j^ears 
to come to perfection, it requires 
very little cultivation ; the Mesti- 
zos not only cultivate the Maguey 
but are its principal consumers 
and the consequence is not fav- 
orable to the physical, nor men- ;^^ — = 
tal parts of the Mestizos race. '=EEE= 
This beverage has upon the sys ^ =^^-=-t 
tern an enervating effect ; taken. ^^^^ 
in moderation, however, it is 
an excellent tonic; in quantities, 
it is fearful in its consequences. 




PUBLIC LETTEE WKITEE. 



There are as many pulque mills in the city of Mexico as there are gin 
mills in New York; as we freely criticise our own bad habits, we feel warrant 
ed in being entirely frank* with regard to what we consider a danger to the 
Mexican nation. It is estimated that the consumption of pulque amounts to 
a pint for each inhabitant in the city of Mexico, 250,000 pints or 31 000 gallon? 
every day. 

A pulque drunk lasts twent,y-four hours. A plant produces about foui* 
quarts of pulque per day, and lasts six months, so that the possessor of a 
small ))atch of ground can raise maguey and remain in a semi-intoxicated con 
dition (whicli many do), for the balance of their days. 

The CaJle Plateros has its sidewalks lined with vehicles of an ancient and 
clumsy model; here as in Havana, the salesmen are obliged to carry their 
wares^to the carriages. In the afternoon a drive on the Paseo is quite the 



32 










33 



style for those who can -'ride in chaises," but, as the Irishman remarked, the 
poor people "walk by them," (the chaises). 

Strano:e sights are witnessed upon this occasion. Haciendados and Ran. 
cAeros in their broad brimmed sowSrems and leatlierc/iagwetos jackets and sil- 
ver frogged breeches, through the outside seam of which, loosely roll wliite- 
flowing drawers, swaggering along the sidewalk, tlieir great spurs jingling, 
and their silver ornaments dangling. Indios trotting onward, the man 
beaj-ing live stock and fruit in a wicker frame, upon his foreliead. And the 
woman with her baby slung in the folds of her blue rebozo, both arms engag. 
ed in carrying provisions. 

Water carriers, fruit sellers, 
soldiers followed by their wives, 
managing tortillas. Mules and 
asses driven by half naked men 
and boys, their feet, baked by the 
burning roads to an ash wliite, 
and theii" limbs bronzed by the 
sun. Muchachos bearing furni- 
ture upon their heads. A demure 
Seftorita clad in the picturesque 
mantilla; swells in short-tailed 
coats, high-heeled boots and 
narrow-rimmed hats puff away 
at their cigarettes through silver 
holders, companies of foot-sold- 
iers shuffling along in sandals, 

guacharez; civil guards trotting WATER CAEEiE:Li. 

on thoroughbreds, in buff and steel with sword and matchlock, recalling the 
days of Cromwell's ironsides, and occasionally a troop of cavalry such as 
Bazaine loved to lead in Africa. These are the sights or some of them which 
attract our attention and excite a continued interest and curiosity. 

The Plateros leads to the Plaza Mayor, this plaza is the grand square of the 
city. Its shape is oblong, 270 yards long by 200 feet wide. Its northern side 
is entirely occupied by the cathedral and sagario; upon tlie side of whicli once 
stood the Aztec pyramid and temple. Cortez, after destroying tliese Indian 
monuments, gave the ground to the Franciscan monks who built thereon 
a cathedral which was demolished in 1530. The present edifice was com- 




34 



menced in 1573 and completed in 1667, at an expense to the crown of Spain 
of $1,762,000; the towers were not completed until 1791 by Damien Ortiz, an 
American architect, at a cost of $194,000. The basis of its columns are cut 

out of the Aztec idols found in 
Teocalli. Tins cathedral meas- 
ures from north to south 426 feet 
and from east to west 200 feet; 
the height of the roof being 175 
feet and the towers 25 feet 
higher. 

Tlie Sagario is too florid to 
command more tlian artistic 
comment. Laid in the wall at 
a height of five feet we perceive 
the famous Aztec calendar, carv- 
ed out of one solid block of 
^ basalt; it weighs 25 tons, its dia- 
^i^gr= meter being twelve feet six inch- 
es. It is supposed to have been 
constructed in 1279. With this 
calendar the Mexicans inherit the 
system of Toltec astronomy. 

Upon the eastern side of the 
Plaza stands the Palacio del Go- 
bier no. Los Fortales de Merca- 
deras, a row supported by a colonnade appears upon the western side of the 
plaza; and upon the south we see the municipal chamber, Casa de Gabildo. 
A lovely mass of vegetation, including trees in perpetual verdancy and deli- 
cious flower beds, marble fountains and seats form the bouquet that graces 
the centre of the Plaza Blayor ; an excellent orchestra, such as Theodore 
Thomas might be proud to lead, gives nightly concerts. 

The Palacio del GoUerno was constructed l)y Cortez, one of its rooms 
can contain 8,000 people. In this palace are tlie President's official apart- 
ments and offices, the cabinets of the ministry, the headquarters of the military 
commander, a barrack, the treasury and archives of the nation. 

La Plaza Santo Domingo is an interesting part of the city. The old 
church of the same name, with its pink walls and glittering tiled dome faces 




BIKD SELLEK. 




PLAZA AND CATHEDRAL BY MOONLIGHL'. 



36 

the south; on the east stands the school of medicine — the curricuhim is seven 
long years — and that terror to importers, the custom house; on the west of the 
plaza an arcade sliclters old scriveners who earn a livelihood by scratching 
all sorts of communications for the illiterate; every conceivable writing, from 
a love-letter to a last will and testament, and all for un media. The buiLiino- 
now occupied by tiic school of medicine, was formerly the seat of tlie inquisition 
tribunal, which was suppressed in 1813, then it was used as a state prison. 
The notable "Yard of the Oranges" was situated within the walls of this Mex- 
ican "Bastille.'' It lias since been used as a lottery office, a barrack and 
a house of congress. In 1854 it was adapted to its present purposes, having 
been purchased for $50, '286. 



'I' HE People Engaged in Business, 

such as banliei-s and merchants do not run themselves to death as they 
do in the United States; the Mexicans follow the example of the Europeans in 
this particular: at eight the merchant opens his store, at twelve he closes it 

and devotes three hours to a dejeune 
ti la fourchette^ as the French term 
the 12 o'clock breakfast, and to di- 
gesting it. The consequence is fav- 
orable to the digestive apparatus and 
dyspepsia does not trouble the Mexi- 
can stomach. From 3 to 4 o'clock the 
business of the day is completed (we 
allude to the wholesale trade ^nd 
banking houses). The Gei-mans have 
almost the entire control of the bank- 
ing business which was formerly done 
exclusively by English houses. The 
majority of the best shopkeepers are 
German, Spanish and French. The 
best clubs are the French and German 
casinos, both of which have large 
memberships, and the balls and fetes 
which they give about every month 

are simply magnificent. 
ISIGHT WAToHMAN. 




3t 



"Those who visit RoQie should do as do the Romans," tliis proverb is 
equally applicable in our estimation to all quarters of the globe. Not only 
should a traveler endeavor to follow the customs of the sphere in which he holds 
a temporary or transient position, but he should also avoid, as much as pos- 
sible, to excite the ill will or prejudice of the people whom he visits, by political 
or religious differences of opinion. Prudence as well as good breeding will, 
we believe, guide the traveler in this respect and suggest to him a discreet and 
amiable deportment upon foreign premises. It is customary in Mexico to of- 
fer a guest everything which he may require for his coinfoi't and convenience 
and literally to put the entire house and everything in it at his disposal for 
the time being. This practice grows out of a genuine feeling of liberality and 
hospitality; but the language used is 
such as to be quite readily misunder- 
stood by a stranger who measures ex- 
pressions by the cold matter-ot-fact 
rule among Americans, -who attach 
no more weight to a mere formality 
than it i« justly entitled to. When 
you enter the house of a friend or even 
a person to whom you have a letter of 
introduction, he at once tells you that 
you are in your own house and that 
you are the master and he your guest 
or something to that effect ; he really 
expects you to make yourself at hom e 
but on the other hand pays you the 
compliment of supposing that you 
have at least an ordinary amount of 
common sense and will know o ugh 
of what constitutes the rules and cus- 
toms of society not to abuse the offer 
and outstay youi- welcome. 

A visit to the Academy of San Car- 
los will compensate the artist and 
amateurs of pictures generally. They will find a collection which (if we may 
take Mexican opinion as an authority) is the best on the American continent. 
The suburbs of Mexico are not like those of Orizaba, yet tiie rock and grove 




FLOWER GIRL. 



38 




39 



of Chapultepec deserve our consideration. Just where the houses end stands 
the equestrian statue of Charles IV. of Spain; it is regarded by critics as one 
of the- most successful efforts in this line of art. From this point al.-o is the 
Galzada de la Reforma, a drive which leads us to Chapultepec, wliich looks in 
the distance not unlike Windsor Castle, when viewed from tlie other end of the 
famous Long Walks. Here, in the afternoons, all Mexicans turn out to drive 
in carriages or ride on horseback. The carriages are almost exclusively of 
French manufacture, are generally close with the exception of a few Victorias; 
this singular fact is explained by the desire to have a suitable conveyance dur- 
ing the three months of rain which 
prevails in this climate. 

We will now observe the equestri- 
ans when mounted h VAnglaise, they 
are dressed h VAnglaise, but if they 
mount a Mexican horse the entire 
paraphernalia is of Mexican fashion ; 
both the horse and man are harnessed 
in a somewhat artistic, but, rather 
comfortable style. It will not be ne- 
cessary to describe a Mexican saddle 
and bridle, nor will we sketch again 
the sombrero, the jacket, pants and 
enormous spurs of the cavalier. 

Half way between the statue of 
Charles IV. and Chapultepec is a 
"circle," in the middle of which ap- 
pears the statue of Christopher Co- 
lumbus ; at this point the view of 
two volcanos in the pink atmosphere 
of a setting sun is truly grand. The 
palace, which was erected in 1V85 
upon the very spot which Montezuma's 
place occupied, is now an astronomi- 
cal observatory, and, like most public buildings here, is not in the very best 
repair. Still the view is sublime; there in the distance the valley of Mexico, 
with its lakes and greei waving fields of rich vegetation, its fringe of moun- 
tains that are veiled in a blue atmosphere, and the various transparent tints 




40 

that radiate upon the heaven's mists to reflect their colors upon nature's flowery 
bosom. The water supply of Mexico was formerly brought to the city through 
the celebrated aqueduct; now there are water pipes, and the ancient conduit 
that afforded a clear and wholesome stream is being removed as an old and 
incapacitated servant. 

Molino del Bey lies not far from Chapultepec, let us see that too, and 
■just beyond lies Tacubaya, a fashionable suburb and countr}"^ seat of wealthy 
Mexicans; here we visit the military school which was formerly situated at 
Chapultepec. 

The city of Mexico is supplied with two kinds of water, namely "agua 
delgada,^^ soft wsiter, and "agua gorda,^^ thick water; the first flows from 
springs in the southern part of the city, near the foot of the mountains; the 
second has its source at Chapultepec. Two very large aqueducts store the 
agua delgada and agua gorda, one at each side of the city. There are 
also many artesian wells, which are used for domestic purposes. Before the 
rainy season the sewers of Mexico are emptied. There are many excellent 
tramways in the city, the management of which is very different from that of 
our American horse railroads; for instance the driver is permitted to recline 
at ease in a comfortable arm chair, while the conductor takes it as leisurely 
as possible, smokes his cigarette, and not infrequently asks a passenger 
for a light. In a Mexican tramway the drivers and conductors are men 
and the horses and mules are beasts, but in New York the reverse seems to 
exist in consequence of Mr. Bergh's supervision and the indifference which 
corporations exhibit toward their human employees. The waiters in Mexico 
are not less impudent than they are in Paris, but if you fee them suitably 
they will assume a respectful attitude at least while they serve you, that is 
why we recommend the fee system. The fare at most of the restaurants 
is good and the cuisine French. There is plenty of pork, but it is allowed 
to go to waste, they are not up to the art of knowing how to cure it for hams. 
American hams can be found everywhere and sell at seventy-five cents per 
pound. The poultry is good, game and meat of all kinds is excellent, and is 
well served ; the tortola^ however, made from corn ground fine between 
two stones and flattened in the hands to a thin cake of oval shape, makes 
an excellent salmi. Wines, Liquors and all drinks are as good as they are 
in New York, and at much cheaper prices. American and German breweries 
are being introduced, but beer sells at such a high price that it is not yet 
within the reach of the class of people who would consume largely; a bottle 



of St. Louis lag-er beer sells for 36 cents, and some German lager sells at 
50 cts. per bottle. English ales can be had at 25 cts. per bottle, but the Mexi- 
cans don't take to it. You will experience a decided physical and moral im- 
provement by the change, although of course we recommend moderation in 
diet, as well as in all human pursuits. 

Mexico city is a paradise of climates, the air is just right every day 
throughout the year; an overcoat in the morning and evening will be found 
very comfortable. English, French and German is very generally spoken. 

A Few Remarks about Money Matters. 

The silver dollar is the only legal tender in Mexico. In the city of Mexico 
the bank notes of the "London Bank of Mexico and South America" pass 
everywhere at par, but in other cities and in the country they are not accepted 
except at a usurious discount. As it is neither convenient nor safe to carry 
large sums in silver, if you intend to travel in the interior, we advise you 
to provide yourself with a circular letter of credit on the various offices of the 
diligence. There is at present a scheme on foot to establish a National Bank 
of Mexico, with English capital, and to make its notes a legal tender. 

The Tivoli Gardens. 

The Tivoli Gardens open on the Avenue of San Cosme just below the 
terminus of an ancient aqueduct, here one can enjoy a very excellent repast 
under the trees or in their branches as tables and benches are placed in these 
aerial shades. The Tivoli Gardens are the resort, which the beau monde of 
Mexico frequent, when a dinner or a supper ,al fresca is proposed. One can 
pass many a pleasant hour in these delicious shades, where nature and a 
good bill of fare are so harmoniously blended. 

Apropos of horseback riding it might to said that, very few Mexican 
gentlemen are not expert in that accomplishment. There is however a very 
decided difference between our English style of riding and the Mexican modus 
operandi, in the first place their horses are small, they pace or canter, and 
their saddles are comfortable chairs. Those who are familiar with our small 
smooth English saddles, and open stirrups, our tall high action trotters can 
appreciate the difference between Mexican riding and American riding. 

If you want to have a good time, my friend, take to the Mexican horse. 



42 




43 

In Mexico you can stand in your stirrups, or lay bade in your comfortable 
saddle, the liorse will cany you along smoothly, no jockeying (or rising in 
your saddle) is necessary. AVe ride more after the style of the Indian with 
bent kpees pressing the horse and bearing but slightly upon our stirrups. 

Tliie Mexican holds his legs straight and often stnnds upon his stirrups 
which are large boxes made of wood. After partaking of a cup of coffee 
start in the early morning for a ride, the AlmecU is passed, not, however, 
without our questioning its dark thickets with suspicious glances in search of 
some robber. 

The "Mad-woman's drive" or •' Empress Drive " as it is now styled is 
much frequented by equestrians, the celebrated tree of Montezuma stands at 
the end of an ancient grove and is ivell worth a visit. 'LMiis tree is a gigantic 
specimen, many hundred years have witnessed the growth of this vegetable pa- 
triarch, which has stood so proudly in defiance of earthquake, cyclone and 
inunda.tion. 

Further on we come to the bath of Montezuma where a refreshing bath 
may be enjoyed, passing on for a mile or so we admire many elegant 
country seats, groves, raviiies, rivulets, lakelets, mounds, flowers in profusion, 
tall Australian gum trees, sumptuous houses with their lai-ge courts open to 
visitors, encircled with flowers, sedans, and pictures. 

Now by leaving the city from the south western gate, we make for the 
canal ; this body of water is worth visiting, it is the feeder of the city ; upon 
its surface the market boats plow their indolent way to the capital; for five 
hundred years it has served as a conduit to feed the population of Mexico 
city. On it the boats are propelled by hand ; we see flat boats loaded with 
truck, fruits, hay and oats, pleasure boats well patronized ply the waters, it is 
almost a Venice. These canals have villages along tlieir banks, some of which 
rise to the dignity of the towns. 

Among the curiosities peculiar to Mexico, the Floating Gardens are not 
the least interesting, these singular formations of ground that float in the 
canals at irregular intervals form truckgardens, which yield vegetables and 
fruit the year around ; of course the perfect irrigation of these gardens 
need not be questioned. 

The statue of the graceful Montezuma is still in the quarries, but as 
the Aztecs are not yet extinct, and in view of the fact that the last President 
was a pure Aztec, as are many of the present leaders in Mexico, we may 
hope to see even at this late day a statue to that renowned monarch. It is 



45 

safe to say that few persons will in that case he able to criticise the likeness. 
After we have seen Mexico, a visit to some of the principal cities in its 
vicinity will be found very interesting and without which one can never know 
what Mexico or its people are. The first place to visit, will be 



' CUERNVACA^ 

situated from Mexico city in a south easterly direction ; we take the stage 
coach, which leaves every day li-om the Hotel Itiirbide in the rear court yard. 
This city is a perfect garden of Eden ; the distance is short and the ride will 
be found full of sights; elegant residences appear on the roadside, and we can 
see the house which was once the resort of Carlotta and Maximilian, and 
although in decay is still full of rare luxuries. Vistas and trees and bowers 
and flowers, bananas, cocoa and other palms, oranges, lemons, mangos, coffee 
and all manner of precious fruits abound. Cuernvaca can boast of one of the 
largest and most interesting market places in Mexico, where may be had 
fruit of every kind, vegatables of all sorts at prices which would gladden the 
eye of a New York boarding house keeper. After visiting the churches of 
which there are a number, we return to our hotel and the next morning seek 
the friendship of our stage coach and again we roll on to tiie capital. 



A Visit to Puebla. 

The Puebla branch starts from Apizaco. It was inaugurated on the 16th 
of September, 1869 by the President of the Republic, who was then Don Be- 
nito Juarez. From Apizaco the railroad continues south east to the station 
of Santa Anna Chiantempam, at 159 kilometres from Mexico city and 15 
kilometres from Apizaco; this station has an altitude of 2,400 metres above 
the sea. The next station is Panzacoto, at about the same altitude. Near this 
place is an extensive iron foundry. Puebla, the capital of the State of the 
same name, is situated at 221 kilometres from Mexico city and 41 from Apizaco 
in a valley, the western extremity of which is guarded by the night sentinels. 
Popocatepete and Ixtaccihuate by Orizaba and the Cofre de Perote to the north 
east and the Ifa^mc/ie to the north. This valley is rich in grain and is watered 
by the river Atoyac which passes through the suburbs of Puebla city and empties 
into the Pacific Ocean. Over this river is an elegant iron bridge. The 
city is remarkably clean, has straight and regular thoroughfares and presents 



46 




NATIONAL PALACE IN THE CITY OF MEXICO. 



4.1 

rather a monumental appearance. Among the remarkable sLructures are the 
cathedral San Francisco, the Guerrero theatre, and the Comjjania. 

Puebla was founded in 1531 by Spaniards and Indian women about 50 
in number. Now it is the elegant and aristocratic abode of some of the 
wealthiest citizens of Mexico. An active trade is carried on in cotton 
and woolen manufactures, as well as earthen ware, glass, cutlery and soap, 
and promises rapid developments in a neai- future. The markets are 
supplied with tlie choicest products of Mexico at very moderate prices. Our 
hotel was once a college or theological school; over the gateway may be seen 
the singular initials I. H. S. The churches in Puebla are grander than those 
of Mexico city, its convents and ecclesiastical institutions more numerous and 
wealthy. The streets are paved in broad blocks, that shine in their cleanliness- 
here as in other Mexican cities the drainage is done from the centre of the 
streets. There are above 60,000 people. The fields appear in better culti- 
vation than those which surround the city of Mexico. Irrigation is easy 
as the mountains near by keep the streams from becoming i-y. 

A visit to the cathedral will compensate the tourist, it is adorned with 
pictures and statues, railings, and other ornaments of gold and silver. A 

splendid view of the city and surrounding country can be had from its top 

the door leading to the tower next to the Plaza Mayor is always open, visitors 
are allowed to enter at any and all times — the view from there is beyond de- 
scription, the landscape is one that once seen is never to be forgotten. A plain 
lies on the right about 100 miles in length by.90 in breadth; at each corn- 
er stand the magniflcient mountains, of which Mexico is famed, unequalled in 
heighth or grandeur by the highest alps. Twenty-five miles to the southwest 
stands the mighty volcanic peak of Popocatepetl or tlie smoking mountain 
the fires that so long throbbed within its breast slumbering after thousands 
of centuries of activity; its head is now covered with snow. There is an en- 
ormous amount of sulphur taken out of the extinct crater, and the carryino- 
down of this and the frozen snow on the sides of the mountain employs hund- 
reds of Indians. Popocatepetl is the very beau ideal of a volcano, and we 
advise all who visit Puebla not to forget to pay it a visit. The best way of 
reaching it is by taking any of the public coaches, and if possible, supply your- 
self with a guide; there are plenty who are reliable, and for a trifling sum will 
accompany you. 

Another of the sights around Puebla not less interesting then Popoca- 
tepetl is the great pyramid of Cholula, it is indeed a wonderful remnant of an 




METLAC muuGE ON THE MEXIC(J .V; VEKA CRUZ E R 



49 

extinct civilization; it lies al)out seven miles to the east of Puebla, and is 
reached in about an hour and a half ride in a public coach; th.e road to Cho- 
lula is so bad that it requires four horses to drag the coach along. When 
Cortez invaded Mexico he found Cholula, the great city of temples, whither all 
Mexico was wont to repair, so much so that he said it reminded him of a Euro 
pean town, there were so many beggars in the streets. A sure test, accord- 
ing'to him, of civilization, it is Silid that at the time of the conquest there were 
150,000 inhabitants — now it is only one long strappling street with a small 
plaza nicely laid out with flowers of which the Indians and mestizos are very 
fond. The pyramid or teocalli (house of God) of Cholula is supposed to be the 
largest in the world. Its length is 1423 feet, its perpendicular height \11 feet 
and its base, which is square, covers nearly forty -four acres ; in shape it is 
a truncated cone, the area of the truncated summit being over an acre. In 
Cholula many old Indian women are met with who ask you to buy pottery 
goods 5 in addition to the peddlers of goods, there are also many stores where 
a large collection of goods- and numerous specimens of the astic pottery are 
sold: the prices asked are generally very high, the tourist will be careful in 
his offers for it can be bought at half the price asked ; they will ask a price 
and before you have a chance to say whether you will take it or not ask you how 
much you will give. 



A Visit to the Minin(; Districts. 

Pachuca is situated in the State of Hidalgo, north east from the city of 
Mexico; a visit to this mining town will amply compensate our traveler. Pa- 
chuca can be reached by two routes, but as yet no railroad communication has 
been made to it ; we are consequently obliged to travel in diligencias; only 
,4^ those who have already experienced the peculiarities of this style of traveling 
can appreciate its various phases. We take the stage or diligencia 
at Ometusco, a station on the Vera Cruz and Mexico railroad; the diligencia 
runs only three times a week. The second line runs from Cuantitlan, on the 
Vera Ci'uz railroad; they start at seven o'clock A. M. Here we are supplied 
with an excellent cup of coffee; while we indulge in this early breakfast, the 
mules are being harnessed to the diligencia. The driver is worthy of note 
with his tight leather trousers, ornamented with rows of silver buttons, his short 
cut roundabout d, la inode '' bull fight," and his large white sombrero; he cuts 
a bold figure and drives excellently; by his side an assistant is serving his ap- 



50 




51 

prenticeship. Hanging on each side of the coach we perceive quite an assort- 
ment of whips of various sizes and weights, devoted to the service of each 
respective mule; besides these instruments of torture a collection of stones may 
be seen behind the driver's assistant who pelts the foremost mules which 
cannot be reached with the whip. When night sets in this assistant runs ahead 
of the team with a pine torch in each hand. Behind the driver is tjie pes- 
cante; we prefer this position, which is the cheapest, to the garlicy and pul- 
que atmosphere of the inside. At last all is ready, the mules are set at 
liberty and away we go rattling over the pavements, until we strike the main 
road to Pachuca. On either side of us broad fields of wheat and corn, and 
maguey meet our gaze. The natives are plowing with very primitive appli- 
ances and oxen that move like snails. This picture is bordered with moun- 
tains in the horizon which resemble clouds of a neutral tint; we are now travel- 
ing through dust only about a foot thick. Every half hour we pass an Indian 
village with its two or three fine churches and its miserable huts, built of un- 
baked bricks. At about one o'clock we reach the little town, Avhere we partake 
of a modest breakfast, after which we resume our journey and arrive at Pa- 
chuca at six P. M. 

The Aztecs worked the mines of Pachuca long before the Spaniards be- 
came possessors of the country. The production of silver is enormous. 
In 1557 Medina introduced the process of amalgamating silver ore with quick- 
silver and volatizing the later, and the first experiments were made at the 
mines of Pachuca. Born introduced this process in Europe in 1750. 

The population of Pachuca is about 18,000, of which 5,000 are engaged 
in mining. The captains of the mines being generally Cornishmen, one might 
imagine himself in an English town. You see one hotel styled "The Port 
of Liverpool, " another "The Three Navies." You can call for roast beef rare 
and a glass of Bass on draught. The Real del Monte Company works most of 
the mines; under Senor Landero, president, the company has extensive reducing 
works. In the Santo Gertrude's mine recently a very rich vein was struck, the 
yield being $500,000 a year; the shares of this stock selling a short time ago 
at a dollar, are now quoted at $900 ! The operations in mining as well as 
the apparatus used for the purpose are exceedingly primitive. It is fair to 
calculate that with our improved machinery at least one hundred per cent, 
more ore could be taken from these mines. The fact is, that every pound 
of ore is elevated in leather bags or cow skins by means of an ordinary 
windlass. The stock of a Mexican mine is divided into twenty-five bars: one 



52 

belongs to the govonnnent; six, known as free shares, to the discoverer, and 
the others are placed upon the market for sale. No dividend is paid upon the 
free shares until the money expended as woi-king capital to start has been re- 
paid to the original subscribers. 

* Let us Visit Orizaba. 

In Orizaba there is no lever; it is situated 4,027 feet above the level of 
the sea; tlie average temperature is 72° Fahrenheit. The town has 13,000 in- 
habitants ; it is old and of quaint appearance, the streets straight but irregular, 
houses with overhanging tiled roofs ; as in Vera Cruz, the sewers or gut- 
ters run in the centre of tlie streets ; generally the houses have only one story. 
As this city is situated upon a railroad line it lias outstripped its rivals, Jalapa 
and Cuernavaca. Some of the finest estates in the world are perched upon these 
hills; the sun casts its amorous rays upon the most lovely spot that nature has 
conceived. Orizaba is a very Eden, a rose fallen from Heaven and held in the 
embrace of mighty moun ains among which the ice-capped volcano stands as 
sovereign. Here we are in a lovely valley at an altitude of 4,000 feet above 
the sea, at the very foot of tlie old volcano which the Aztecs called Citlalte- 
path or Star Mountain. 

Orizaba presents the appearance of a magnificent garden; it is a delight- 
fill spot to visit. Here we find the principal stoneyards and work sliops of 
the Vera Cruz R. R. OClate years Orizaba lias come into especial prominence; 
at the railway depot there is collected quite a colony of English and American 
people and to hear English spoken is no novelty; there has also been estab- 
lished lately an American missionary school, a branch of that at Mexico 
City. 

The French army under Bazaine had its headquarters here. It was also 
at Orizaba that Maxamillian held the famous council after the French evacuation 
of Mexico, to determine whether he should abdicate or not. We know that he 
determined to remain and we also know that that resolution sealed his death 
warrant. The proprietor of the hotel at Orizaba at present is an ex-lieutenant 
in poor Maxiinillian's army. 

A trip to Cordova is a good diversion lor three or four hours; stages run 
from Orizaba to this place. Cordova lies 2000 feet lower than Orizaba; the 
scenery is iruly grand, the gorgeous coloring of the fiowers and shrubs, banana 
trees, upon which rich fruit hung in clusters, and the golden orange trees, pro- 



53 

lific in their juicy product, all meet the eye and bring water to the mouth of 
the least fastidious. 

The cotfee plant which grows wild reaches colossal proportions and lines 
the side of our route. Every now and then our conveyance which resembles a 
diligence, on a rough scale, makes a spurt ahead down the road or flies over a 
rustic wooden bridge at a fine rate of speed. Now we pass the famous Barran- 
ca of Metlac, where the railroad crosses. This railroad bridge is a marvel 
of engineering skill. The grade at either end is three feet in the hundred, and 
the radius of the curve is three hundred and twenty-five feet, the passengers 
in the first car look across to the opposite hill and see the last cars running ex- 
actly parallel. Close to the Metlac Barranca runs the little river Jonso, the 
waters of which pass through the Mount Suinidero and conceal their virginity 
in its fragrant forests. 

About a mile from Cordova we may visit the residence and coffee plan- 
tation of an enthusiastic German botanist; the introduction of coffee into this 
region is of recent date, but the production is already very large; the coflee 
plant is an evergreen, it will, if improved, grow to the height of thirty feet; the 
leaves are dark and shining, of an oblong shape. This plant is kept down by 
pruning to about 5 feet so that its substance may be conveyed to the fruit, and 
constant attention is bestowed upon the ground in which it grows to keep it 
clear from weeds. The coffee plant is started in nurseries, planted out at a year 
old and bear fruit after three years growth, but not in perlection until the fifth 
year. Cordova is sixty-five miles from Vera Cruz and sixteen miles from 
Orizaba. 

From Vera Cruz to Jalapa. 

This route is divided into two branches, to the west of Tejeria. One 
branch traverses the heights of Chiquihuite and Maltrata mountains, and unites 
Vera Cruz with Orizaba, Cordova and Mexico; we have already gone over it on 
our way to the capital. The other reaches the central table land by the route 
of Jalapa and Perote; our attention will now he given to this route. After 
reaching tlie "Paso cle San Jaan,'^ the line follows a most picturesque tract 
of country. Our cars are open and permit our admiring observations to roam 
on all sides over the charming beauty of a luxui'iant vegetation which exhales 
its perfume toward the grand azure of the heavens. Large flocks of birds, 
resplendent in their plumage, chatter away like so many young girls at a tea 



54 

party. What arc they talking about ? might be asked ; perliaps they are criti- 
cising us. 

At all events they appear very busy and excited, flying here and there 
fi'om the tall palm trees to the lesser vegetation ; this scene is different from 
that which we have observed on our road to Puebla. The country here is wild 
and ahiiost abandoned to the birds and beasts of its virgin forests, few culti- 
vated fields meet our gaze, seldom do we pass one of those small hamlets that 
indicate the presence of man and the pursuit of agriculture. 

Over this country in long years past the trade between the city of Mexico 
and' Vera Cruz did its transportation, now it is almost abandoned. Jalapa is 
situated at the foot of the basaltic mountain, Macuiltepete, in a delightful 
spot; the convent of San Francisco, not far from the city has the appearance 
of a fortress, from its cupolas an extended view of the rich country which sur- 
rounds Jalapa may be enjoyed. Jalapa has an altitude of ),320 metres. 

This romantic spot has been compared very properly, to a bouquet of tiow- 
ers on a couch of green tapestry. In fact the entire atmosphere is perfumed 
and the traveler receives intimation of his approach to this city through the 
medium of the breeze long before he treads the flower-fields of Jalapa. The 
climate here is temperate, we find ourselves 1.320 metres having travelled 114 
kilometres, all in the space of 10 hours. 

The population is about 11,000, at present the state authorities and the 
bishopric of Vera Cruz reside at Jalapa. It was here that Santa Anna first 
proclaimed the Republic. As we enter the principal street of this city we per- 
ceive the Palace of the state authorities, an elegant structure sustained by 
doric arches, it is situated on the south side of a riaza forming the terminus 
to the principal thoroughfare. The people of Jalapa are as hospitable and 
kind as we have found them generally in our Mexican peregrinations. 

The principal agricultural products here are cofl'ee, tobacco, vanilla, cot- 
ton, jalap root, and grain. The cost of cotton landed at Vera Cruz from this 
place is 14 cents per pound, valuable mines and quarries are found but have 
not been worked to any important extent. 



A Visit to Tlacotalpan. 

This is a beautiful city, situated on the left bank of the Papaloapan and 
opposite the conjunction of this river with that of San Juan, in the State of 
Vera Cruz; the trade is considerable, and the industry well advanced. The 



• 55 

women of this place are considered singularly handsome and remarkable for 
the beauty and expression of their eys and complexion of their skin. — The city 
has a principal square and fine promenades. Tlacotalpan is a city of progress 
and promises in a greater degree tiian any other on the coast to become the 
New Orleans of the Mexican Republic. The means of reaching this place is 
very convenient; an American built side wheel steamer of 600 tons capacity, 
runs between Vera Cruz and that place, and leaves twice a week. The pas- 
sage rates are $16.00 for an excursion. The steamer has a capacity for 
carrying eighty passengers; the distance from Tlacotalpan to Vera Cruz is 
sixty miles. 

After having visited the different places of Mexico to which we have re- 
ferred in our brief sketches, the tourist has two ways of returning to New York. 
By way of Havana, or by steamer from Vera Cruz to New Orleans. By this 
route one can return to New York six days and a half after leaving Vera 
Cruz, calculating four days from Vera Cruz to New Orleans and two and a 
half days from New Orleans to New York. This mode of returning from 
Mexico is the quickest and has much favor with tourists. The trip up the 
Mississippi River is very interesting ; its length — I'iO miles — is made in about 
12 hours. The river on either side is lined with sugar plantations and orange 
groves. Although the route via New Orleans may be preferred by some, the 
other way of returning via Havana is equally agreeable to those who wish to 
avoid railroad travel. 

The Steamship Company of Messrs, F. Alexandre & Sons issue excursion 
tickets, good on either route. 



LAWS OF MEXICO REGARDING PASSENGERS AND THEIR 

BAGGAGE. 

Article 80 of the Tariff. — The following rules will be observed in the 
Custom Houses of the Republic for the disembarkment of passengers and 
their effects. Every passenger who arrives at the ports of the Republic, can 
disembark at once after the vessel has cast anchor, together with his personal 
baggage. In case the vessel should arrive at night, or at any hour that the 
office of the custom-house is closed, passengers will be allowed to disembark, 



,56 

but will only be allowed to take with them a small object or box containing not 
more than may be necessary for immediate personal wants. 

The examination of bagg'aj^-c will be made liberally, with prudence and 
moderation. Passengers will not l)e detained any longer than the time neces- 
sary for inspection of the objects which are in their possession, and should 
they be foreigners not speaking or understanding the Spanish language, there 
will be at the examination an employe who will serve as interpreter, whose 
duty it will be to inform passengers of the (conditions and formalities to which 
they are obliged to subnui, in conformity with customs, tariff and other dis- 
positions relative thereto. In regai'd to wearing ajiparel and jewelry of per- 
sonal use, it will be left subject to the examination of the officers as to the 
quantity and quality of that which will not be subject to duty, taking into 
consideration the character and personality of the travelers. 

The iwticles which ought to b;3 considered coannonly used, besides the 
wearing appai'el, and which are dispatclu;d free of duty, are the folhjwing, 
observing, however, that duty will be collected on such oiijects which may be 
found between said articles presented by tin,' travelers vvhicji <'aiinot, in a 
bonajide sense, be materially used by them. 

Two watches with their chains. 

100 cigars. 

40 small boxes of cigai-ettes. 

I kilog. of snuff. 

I kilog. smoking tol)acco. 

One i)air of ])ist()ls with accessory and with 200 charges. 

A ritie, a gun or fowling i)iece, with accessory and with L'OO charges. 

One pair of musical instruments, excepting piano-lbrtes or organs. 

All those objects not incliuied nit.o the franchise granted into the pieceding 
lines, and which ai-e carried by the travelers in small quantities with the 
motive of nmking presents, are sul)ject to the duties fixed in the tariff. 

They are obliged to nKd<e respecting them a declaration explaining the 
number of the packages and their contents, handing it ovei- to the Custom 
House. 

When there ari-ives with the effects ol' travelers used furniture, it will be 
taken into account their demerit for the settlement of the duties. 

Should the travelers, be artists of some opera, drama, opera ('ompany, etc.,. 
it will be allowed in genei-al to ihem, besides the franchise gi'anted in the pre- 
ceding article, the introduction free from duty of their costumes, scenic orna- 



57 

ments, but so that the same will arrive forming a portion of their effects and are 
not of an excessive quantity. Should the officers be of ophiion that there is 
some abuse with the introduction, they have to make up an invoice and to 
collect 55% on the valuation or appraisement which is lobe done in the same 
form as with those effects which ought to pay on appraisement. 

Loose sheets containing these particulars have been printed by order of the 
Custom House and are distributed by the purser of the vessel among passen- 
gers before the dispatch of their effects. These forms are printed in Spanish, 
French, English and German, in order tliat passengers may acquaint them- 
selves with the obligations to which they are subject. 



LINES OF STEAMERS ARRIVING AT VERA CRUZ. 



TIME TABLE AND PASSENGER RATES. ' 

ROYAL MAIL LINE. 

Steamer arrives at Vera Cruz on ihe 'iTth or 28th of every |ponth ; leaves 
Vera Cruz for Havana and Southampton on the first and second of every 
month. 

Passage rates to Southampton, first class, . $236.43 $210.18 llSS.gt 
" " " second class, . 121. 3Y 

" " third class, . 78.81 

Agents in Vera Cruz, Cos, Castillo & Co. 



FRENCH TRANSATLANTIC LINE. 

Steamer arrives at Vera Cruz on the 13th to 15th of every month ; leaves 
Vera Cruz for Havana and St. Nazaire on the lYth of every month. 
Passage rates to St. Nazaire, first class, . $280.00 $252.00 $190.00 
'* " " steerage, . . 114.00 

Agents in Vera Cruz, Torre, Ftsher & Co. 



58 

GERMAN LINE. 

Steamer arrives at Vera Cruz on the 6th of every mouth ; leaves Vera Cruz 
for Tampico on the Yth, and returns to Vera Cruz ; leaves Vera Cruz for Ha- 
vana and Hamburg on the I'ith. 

Passage rates to Hamburg, first class, 
" " " steerage, . 

Agents in Vera Cruz, Guillermo Busing & Co. 



LIVERPOOL LINE. 

Steamer arrives at Vera Cruz on the 6th to 10th of every month ; leaves 
Vera Cruz for New Orleans via Tampico and Brazos on the 25th to 30th of 
every month. 

Passage rates to New Orleans, 1st class, . . $60.00 
'' " " 2d class, . . . 45.00 

Agents in Vera Cruz, M. Z. De Markoe & Co. 



AMERICAN LINE FROM NEW YORK. 

Steamer leaves New York for Vera Cruz during the summer months every 
two weeks, touching at the ports of Havana, Progreso, Campeche and Fron- 
tera ; daring the winter months steamer leaves every week, touching at the 
same ports, going and coming. 

Passage rates from New York to Vera Cruz, .... $85.00 

" " • " " and return, . . 100.00 

Agents in Vera Cruz, R. C. Ritter & Co. 



AMERICAN LINE FROM NEW ORLEANS. 

Steamers leave New Orleans for Vera Cruz every three weeks, touching at 
the ports of Bagdad, Tampico and Tuxpam, going and coming. 



59 

PASSENGER RATES FROM VERA CRUZ TO 





Havana. 


New York. 


New Orleans 


Amoricaii steamer, 1st class. , 


150.00 


$85.00 


$60.00 


'' " 2d class, 


. 25.00 


60.00 


45.00 


English steamer, 1st class, 


52.56 






" " 2d class, . 


. 26.31 






French steamer, 1st class, 


52.00 






" " 2d class, . 


. 26.00 






GermcUi steamer, 1st class, 


59.00 






" '' steerage, . 


. 15.00 






Liverpool steamer, 1st clasb. , 






60.00 


" 2d class, 


. 




45.00 



60 



RAILROAD TIME TABLE AND PASSAGE RATES 
FROM VERA CRUZ TO MEXICO. 



STATIONS. 


1st 
Class. 


2d 
Class. 


3d 
Class. 


Vera Cruz 


Leave 


11 30 P.M. 








Tt-jei ia 


ti 


12 05 A.M. 


$ 71 


S 52 


$ 28 
75 


Soleda i 


Arr.ve 


1 lO " 


1 92 


1 40 


" 


Leave 


1 10 '• 











Camaroii 


(1 


2 05 " 
2 35 " 


2 81 

3 47 


1 10 

2 53 


1 13 


Paso del Macho 


Arrive 


1 36 


<■ I. .< 


Les'.ve 


2 53 " 











Atoync 


,. " 


3 25 " 


3 93 


2 86 


1 53 


Cordoba 


Arrive 


4 20 '• 


4 83 


3 52 


1 89 


" 


Leave 


4 30 " 











Fortni 


" 


5 00 " 


6 20 


3 78 


2 03 


Oriziba 


Arrive 


600 " 


7 03 


4 39 


2 35 


" 


Leave 


6 20 " 


. 








Euciiml 






. — 








Maltrata 


Leave 


7 20 " 

8 0.) '• 


7 96 


5 06 


2 72 


Bota 


>( 




Alti Lnz 






7 88 


5 73 




Boca del Moute 




3 08 


Esperauza 


Arrive 


9 20 " 











" Lave 


Leave 


10 00 " 











San Andres 


a 


10 50 " 

11 20 " 


8 87 

9 54 


6 56 

7 11 


3 59 


Rinconala 


" 


3 92 


San Marcos 


Arrive 


11 40 " 


10 12 


7 50 


4 23 


" 


Leave 


11 50 " 


— 


— 







i( 


12 35 P. M. 
125 '• 


10 68 

11 5J 


8 06 
8 75 


5 51 


Apizaco 


Arrive 


4 94 


li 


Leave 


1 55 " 


— 


— 





Guadalupe (liacicuda) 


" 


2 35 " 


11 99 


9 16 


. 5 19 


Soltepec 


" 


3 05 " 


12 37 


9 48 


5 39 


Apam 


Arrive 


3 35 " 


13 00 


10 00 


5 71 


" 


Leave 


3 45 •' 


- 


— 


. — 


Trolo 


a. 


4 15 " 


13 50 


10 42 


5 97 


Ometusco 


li 


4 40 " 

4 55 " 
518 " 


13 82 

14 02 
14 21 


10 58 

10 85 

11 01 


6 13 


La Palma 


n 


6 23 


Olumba 


'< 


6 33 


S. Juan Teotihuaciu. . 


" 


5 40 '• 


14 59 


11 32 


6 52 


Texpaiu 


" 


5 55 " 


14 95 


11 62 


6 71 


Mexico 


Arrive 


6 50 " 


16 LO 


12 50 


7 25 



61 
BRANCH LINE FROM PUEI5LA TO APIZACO. 



Train 


Train 


Distance 


Distance 










to 


to 


in 


in 


STATIONS. 


1st 


2d 


3d 


Mexico. 


Veracruz. 


Miles. 


Kilometres 




Class. 


Class. 


Class. 


Morning 


Night. 














11 00 


12 00 






Puebla 








11 30 


12 311 


7i 


12 


Paijzacola 


$0 59 


$0 41 


$0 30 


12 15 


1 15 


181 


301 


Santa Aua 


93 


78 


58 


1 00 


2 00 


294 


47 


Apizaco 


1 52 


1 27 


78 



BRANCH LINE FROM VERA CRUZ TO JALAPA. 



STATIONS. 



Veracruz 

Tejeiia. . . 

Pas 1 de San Juau 
Tierra Colorado . 
Paso de Olivas . . 
Puente Nacional. 
Kuiconada . 

Plan del Bio 

Cei TO Gordo 

Dos Rios 

Jalapa 




2d Class. 



$0 56 

93 

1 12 

1 62 

2 00 
2 31 

2 65 

3 12 

3 50 

4 00 



EXCURSIONS FROM HAVANA. 



1. Havana to Batabano bj rail ; thence by steamer to Cienfuegos, Trin- 
idad, Manzanillo, Santiago de Cuba, Baracoa, Gibara, Nuevitas, Havana — 
or in reverse order. 

2, Havana to Santiago de Cuba, as in No. ] ; tiience by steamer to 
Kingston, Jamaica, and return to Santiago. 

3. Havana steamer to Nuevitas, Santiago, Porto Plata, Porto Rico, St. 
Thomas (Spanish line). 

4, Havana to St. Thomas by Royal Mail and French Line of Steamerr. 
direct 



62 

5. Havana to St. Thomas, as in No. 4 ; thence to Antigua, Barbados, 
Dominica, Granada, Guadaleupe, Martinique, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and other 
islands ; returning same way. 

6. Steamer to St. Thomas ; thence to Para, Bahia, Pernambuco, Rio de 
Janairo, by Brazil Line American steamers, 

7. Steamer to St. Thomas ; thence to New York by Brazil Line Ameri- 
can steamers. 

8. Steamer to St. Thomas; thence to England or France by Royal Mail 
or French steamers. 

9. Havana to Vera Cruz and other Mexican ports, by Alexandre's Line. 

10. Havana to Cedar Keys and New Orleans; connecting at Cedar Keys 
with railroad to Florida cities and the North. 

U. Havana to New Orleans direct, and rail to all points in the United 
States and Canada. 

12. Havana to Nassau; thence to St. Augustine and Savannah, Ga. 

13. Havana to Matanzas, Cardenas, Sagua, Cienfuegos, by railroad 
(various routes). 

14. Havana to tobacco districts, by Western Railroad. 

15. Havana to tobacco district ofVuelta Abajo, by steamer to Bahia 
Honda and San Cayetano. 



STEAMSHIP LINES FROM HAVANA. 

SPANISH MAIL LINE. 

For Coruna and Santader, Spain, on the 15th, monthly. 
For Cadiz, 5th and 25th, monthly. 

First Class, $200 00 

Second Class, - .. 160 00 

Third Class, 70 00 

Agents, M. Calvo & Co., 

No. 28 Oficios street. 



WEST INDIA MAIL STEAMSHIP LINE. 

Leave Havana on the 3d, 10th, 13th and 23d, monthly, for Santiago'de 



St class. 


2d class. 


$34 00 


$23 00 


41 00 


28 00 


51 00 


34 00 


60 00 


40 00 


65 00 


40 00 


65 00 


40 00 



63 

Cuba, Puerto Rico, St. Thomas, Kingston, touching at principal Cuban and 
Puerto Rico ports. 

Havana to Nuevitas, . . . . 

" Gibara, 

" Santiago, ...... 

" Kingston, . . . . 

•' Puerto Plata, 

•' Puerto Rico, 

" St. Thomas, . - . . . 

Agent, Dn Ramon De Hereera, 

No. 68 Oficios Street. 



MISSISSIPPI AND DOMINION STEAMSHIP LINE. 

HAVANA TO NEW ORLEANS AND LIVERPOOL. 

Monthly trips between each port, 

1st class. 2d class. 

Havana to New Orleans, $34 00 $17 OO' 

" Liverpool, . . . . . . 140 00 40 00 

Agents, J. H. Durruty & Co., 

No. 23 San Ignacio Street. 



NORDDEUTSCHER LLOYD STEAMSHIP CO. 

BREMEN AND NEW ORLEANS, TOUCHING AT SOUTHAMPTON AND HAVRE. 

Leaving Havana every 15 days during the winter. 

1st class. 2d class. 

Havana to New Orleans, . . . . . . $34 00 17 00 

'' Europe, . . . . . ' . . 153 00 51 00 

Agents, H. Upmann & Co., 

64 Cuba Street. 



64 
NEW ORLEANS, FLORIDA AND HAVANA STEAMSHIP COMPANY. 

HAVANA TO NEW ORLEANS, TOUCHING AT KEY WEST AND CEDAR KEYS, 

FLORIDA. 

Leave Havana every,, Wednesday. 

Havana to Key West, $10 00 

" " Cedar Keys, 25 00 

" New Orleans 34 00 

Agents, Lawton Brothers, 

No. 13 Mercaderes Street. 



SOUTH SIDE COAST LINE. 

HAVANA TO ISLE OF PINES. 

Via Railroad to Batabano, Cuba, Leave Havana by rail every Sunday 

morning. 

1st class. 2d_]class. 

Batabano to Nueva Gerona, ..... $9 00 $5 50 

j^Qri-j. The Island of Pines is a noted place for invalids, and strongly recommended by 

medical men. 



SOUTHERN NAVIGATION^ LINE. 

HAVANA TO CIENFUEGOS, TRINIDAD AND SANTIAGO DE CUBA, VIA 
RAILROAD TO BATABANO. 

Leave Havana (Central Railroad) every Sunday at 2.40 P. M., and ever/ 
Wednesday at 5.45 A. M., for Batabano, connecting with first-class steamers. 

Batabano to Cienfuegos $ 

" " Trinidad, 

" " Manzanillo 

" " Santiago de Cuba, 



65 

HAVANA TO CARDENAS. 

Spanish steamer " Soler " every Tuesday and Friday, at 6 P. M. Returns 
every Wednesday and Saturday. 
First-class passage, $100 



HAVANA TO CAIBARIEN. 

Touching at Cardenas every 10th, 20th and 30th of the month, per 
steamship "Alava." 

Havana to Nuevitas, Gibara, Baracoa, Guantanamo and Santiago, Span- 
ish steamer "Clara," every 15 days. 

Agents, L. Sohler & Co., 

No. 10 Paula Street. 



HAVANA TO SAGUA AND CAIBARIEN, TOUCHING AT CARDENAS. 

SPANISH STEAMEE " DOMINaO N. HERNANDER." 

Leave Havana 5th, 15th and 25th, monthly. 



Havana to Sagua, . 

" " Caibarien, . 
Sagua to Caibarien, 

Above in Spanish bank-bills. 



1st class. 


2d cl^ss. 


$25 00 


$15 00 


40 00 


20 00 


16 00 


8 00 



HAVANA TO BAHIA HONDA, SAN-CAYETANO, RIO BLANCO, &G. 

(TOBACCO district;. 

STEAMERS "BAHIA HONDA" AND "ANITA". 

Every Saturday at 10 P. M. 

Ist class. 2d class. 

Havana to Bahia Honda, . . . . . . $6 3t $ 5 00 

" Rio Blanco, 10 62 8 50 

" San Cayetano, 12 75 10 62 

Malas Aguas, 14 87 12 75 



66 

VAXA TO NASSAU, K P.; THENCE TO ST. ATGUSTINE, Fla. 
AND SAVANNAH, Ga. 

Leave every fortnight. 

All i-ates not otherwise speeified are in Spanish gold, 



S. S. CITY OF ALEXANDRIA, 



Was built by John Roach & Sons, Chester, Pa., on July 9th, 1880; she is 
338 feet long over all, 38 feet 6 inches wide, 25 feet deep from the spar deck, 
and 33 feet deep from the hurricane deck, being 10 feet longer, 6 inches 
wider and 2 feet shallower than the '-City of Washington, which in all other 
respects she closely resembles. The hull is iron with plates from five eighths 
of an inch to one inch in thickness, which are riveted in boiler style ; the 
deck houses around the galley and the boiler and engine rooms are also iron, 
but in other places of wood; the spar deck for the entire length and breadth 
of the vessel is of iron covered with wood, and the lower deck abreast of the 
machinery is of iron. The engines are a compound pair with a high pressure 
cylinder of 42^ inches and a low pressure cylinder of 78 inches diameter and 
w^ith a stroke of 54 inches. Steam is furnished at 80 pounds per square inch 
by four boilers, each 10 feet long by 14 feet 6 inches in diameter and each 
having four furnaces. The total grate surface is 352 feet. The propeller is of 
the Hirscli pattern, 16 feet 3 inches in diameter with a pitch of 25 feet ; the 
vessel has a water ballast tank and a fresh water condenser, capable of pro- 
ducing 250 gallons per day, and she carries as a part of her general equipment, 
which is thorough in every department, a steam launch. 

The steamer has superb accommodations for 150 first class passengers ; 
the large saloon, is in the section where the least motion is felt and 
where the greatest amount of light and breeze are attainable at sea ; it is 
fitted with small tables whereat passengers may breakfast, dine or sup a la 
carte and at any hour; each table is made to accomodate four persons and is 
supplied with revolving chairs. The joiner work is a marvel of beauty and 
taste, the main saloon is furnished in ash, mahogany, black walnut, butternut 
white holly, and amaranth, or as it is called in South America "blood woot,' 
all highly polished and arranged in an exquisitely artistic manner. There are 



67 

five spacious bridal chambers. The berths are constructed in cane bottoms 
for use in warm weather and swinging berths are in readiness for sea sick 
passengers ; each room is neatly furnished and supplied with every con- 
venience to make the occupants comfortable. In the matter of life preservers 
and life boats the City of Alexandria cannot be surpassed by any other steam- 
ship afloat ; she is commanded by Captain J. Deaken, commodore of Alex- 
andre's Line, an old and experienced navigator ; who was captain of the first 
steamer that Messrs. Alexandre sent to Mexico and has since successfully 
commanded every new steamer this company has had. Those who have traveled 
with the commodore are universal in their high praises of him as a gentleman 
and ofiicer. 



S. S. CITY OF WASHINGTON. 



Is an iron steamer built by Messrs. John Roach & Sons, of Chester, Pa. 
The vessel is 2618 tons custom liouse measurement. Its dimensions are 321 
feet; breadth of beam, 38 feet; depth from spar deck, 35 feet; and from hur- 
ricane deck, 28 feet. Her hull is of iron, the plating being riveted through- 
out in boiler fashion, the plates vary from five-eighths of an inch to an inch 
and a quarter in thickness ; her deckhouses near the machinery and the galley 
are of iron, while the others are constructed of wood ; the spar deck is of iron 
covered with wood for the entire length and breadth of the vessel ; the lower 
deck abreast of the space occupied by the machinery is also of iron. The 
engines were made at the Morgan Iron Works of New York, they are of the 
compound pattern, the high pressure cylinder having a diameter of 40 inches 
and the low pressure one of 74 inches; the stroke of the piston is six feet. 
The boilers, two in number, have each a diameter of 17 feet and a height of 
20 feet, the steam pressure is 80 lbs to the square inch ; the propeller has a 
diameter of 16 feet with a pitch of 24 feet. The City of Washington can 
accommodate 150 first-class passengers. The state rooms are fitted up finely 
emplojdng all the resources of artistic joiners; the saloon is made from 20 dif- 
ferent kinds of wood from black walnut to amaranth; the latter wood is some- 
what like red cedar but has a finer grain, a more beautiful color and is sus- 
ceptible of a more perfect polish. With a view of preventing sea sickness and 
greatly adding to the comfort of passengers there has been placed in a num. 
ber of state rooms the new patent ' ' Huston " self-leveling berth which remains 



68 

always and under all circnmstances in a perfectly horizontal position however 
great may be the rolling and pitching of the steamer, this can not fail to be 
appreciated by the travelers and especially those effected by sea sickness who 
may now feel assured of enjoying perfect rest and quiet while in their berths. 
A change has also been introduced in the dining saloons, where, instead of the 
inconvenient long tables and sofas of the old style, small tables that will ac- 
commodate from four to eight persons have l)een substituted, with single re- 
volving chairs for each one in order to avoid the usual confusion and noise in- 
cident to the dining together of all the passengers. L. F. Timmermann is 
Captain. 



S. S. CITY OF MEXICO. 



Was built by Messrs. John Englis & Son of New York, and is 219 feet in 
length on deck, 36 feet beam, 2(1 feet depth of hold and 1027 tons burthen. She 
is constructed of white oak, hackmatack and chestnut, and fastened with com- 
position and galvanized iron; her engines, constructed by the Quintard Iron 
Works, are of the vertical direct acting character, 50 inches diameter of cyl- 
inder by 44 inches stroke, her propeller, 1.3 feet diameter, has a pitch of 25 
feet. She is fitted with auxiliary boilers and steam pumps of the largest ca- 
pacity; her internal fittings reflect credit on both joiners and upholsterers 
as the 49 state rooms and 101 berths she possesses, are furnished in the most 
comfortable manner with all that a veteran voyageur could desire. All the ne- 
cessary hoisting engines, steam pumps, auxiliary boilers, &c., that a vessel 
of this character requires, the City of Mexico has in abundance. — J. Mcintosh 
is the Commander. 



S. S. CITY OF MERIDA. 



Was built by Messrs. John Englis & Son of Greenpoint, L. I. ; she is 265 
feet in length on deck, 37 feet l)eara, 26^ feet in depth of hold (in lower hold 
11 feet in depth) height between decks 8 feet, in Cabin 1\ feet ; she is 2000 
tons old or 1500 tons custom house measurement, full brig rigged, has sur- 
fiice condenser engines (built at the Delamater works) of 56 inch cylinder, 54 



inch cylinder, 54 inch stroke of piston, with two return tubular boilers: she has 
two smoke stacks and a brass screw, weighing 2000 pounds. Her state rooms 
of which there are forty first-class and twelve second-class are fitted magni- 
ficently, and their arrangement and adornment are simply superb. A peculiar- 
ity of the interior arrangements is that the deck appartments are fitted with 
steam radiators and communication by wire and bell between the stewards 
department and every state room is ingeniously provided for. The appearance 
of the ship is such that even the most ignorant landsman must have confidence 
in her. She is high in the bows and has a clear run aft, and altogether may 
be described as a safe and swift vessel in which it would be a comfort to travel. 
J. W. Reynolds is Captain. 



S. S. BRITISH EMPIRE. 
This steamer is chartered by Messrs. F. Alexandre & Sons. It is an iron 
steamer and was built in 1878 for New Zealand trade ; it is 410 feet long, 40 
feet beam, 28 feet hold, and has a carrying capacity of 4000 tons, She is sup- 
plied with two 3000 horse power compound engines; she was constructed and 
built by the same firm, who build the steamers of the white star line. The 
steamer being too large for the trade in which it was engaged, it was placed 
on the fine between Liverpool and Philadelphia, from whom it is chartered; it 
has superior accommodations for 50 first-class passengers and 40 second-class. 
The dining rooms are on deck midship oCthe steamer, and the staterooms are 
furnished with all modern improvements and she is considered as safe and com- 
fortable a steamer as any on the line. Captain Fawcett is commander with 
Captain Rettig as first officer. 



S. S. ISTANKIN. 
Is an iron built screw steamer of 3100 tons capacity, chartered by Messrs. 
F. Alexandre & Sons, and is in every respect adapted for the trade in which 
it is engaged. As for comfort it cannot be surpassed by any steamer afloat. 
Her length is 331 feet, breadth 36 feet 8 inches, depth of hold 25 feet 7 inches. 
The cabins and dining rooms are amidships, the smoking room and social hall 
are on the upper deck, and every room is supplied with every convenience to 
make the occupants comfortable. In the matter of life preservers the steam- 
ship Nankin is supphed in abundance. 



I 




292FiP.^$iI<^flr^ile. 



MANUFACTURERS 

SHOULD TAKE NOTICE OF THE ADVANTAGES OFFERED BY ADVERTISING IN 

Wineburgh's 
MONTHLY SPANISH PRICE CURRENT 



It is a Monthly Publication devoted to the interests of merchants and niannfacturers, 
contains an accurate list of all articles of import and export to and from Spanish America; 
with prices ruling in this market, and treating on every subject that may be interesting to 
merchants in those markets who have business relations with the United States. To manu- 
facturers we would respectfully observe that it is not intended for a mere advertising sheet — 
to be loaded down with whatever may be offered for nominal pay. We have announced that 
we will publish a limited number of advertisements, and we mean that, in all sincerity. The 
circulation of this price current throughout Spanish America will be of such an extensive 
range, that those for whom we do advertise, will find their interests immensely enhanced, 
and especially by the additional fact that the price current is published of a character and in 
a form which will lead to its being very generally filed for reference, instead of being dis- 
carded. The principal feature of this price current above others of a similar character, is 
that it is designed for the special purpose of several large export commission merchants, to 
whom we deliver gratuitously several hundred copies each month, with their names and 
busiuess cards prominently displayed; our name as publishers not appearing in it in any 
way, thus making it appear that the firm are the imlividual publishers. Our charges, in 
view of these considerations, will be found as reasonable as they can be made or can be ex- 
pected by those advertising in good faith; to o'.hers, we have no inducements to offer. 
Sample Copies sent free on application. 

M. WINEBURGH & CO., Publishers, 

55 & 57 Beaver St., New York. 

WrNEEUKGH's SPANISH Pkice Cubkent AND Maeket Eeview wiU havc a monthly 
circulation of 2500 copies in the following countries: Cuba and other West India Islands, 
Mexico, Centeal Amebica, Columbia, Venezuela, Beazil, Ueuguay, Aegentine 
Republic, Chili, Peeu, Bolivia and Equadob. 



THE HUSTON SHIP'S BERTH CO., 

OT BOSTOU, MASS- 

Are prepared to treat with owners 'of Steamships, for the sale and 
use of their ^gg^^^^^^^^^^^^^ uig-^-'iimui^a,^,.,^ 

SHIP'S 




which are recoinmoiided to tlie traveling public. 
1st As preventing sea-sickness; 
2d Griving perfect ease and comfort to the occupant. 

They are au essentiaUy self-leveling berth, never moving from 
an exact equipoise. 

OrF THE Ikish Coast, April 30th, 1880. 
To the Huston Ship's Berth Co.: 

Messieuus : — It is with great pleasure that I make my thanks to you for the berth with 
which you did me the honor to furnish my state room during the present voyage of the 
"City of Chester" from Nrw York to Liverpool. The berth has, in every waj', much more 
than fuldlled my expectations. 

I have slept in it every night as if floating in the air, and what the ship might choose to 
do I felt to be no affair of mine, having a centre of gravity which her pitching in no wise 
disturbed. 

I do not see how sleeping at sea can be made more pleasant than your berth renders it. 
Indeed, I am so much in love with the berth that if I could I think I should choose to oc- 
cupy it even on land. 

I most cordially wish you success in j'our effort to introduce the invention everywhere. 
It will certainly much lessen the misery from which few landsmen are exempt when at sea. 

I have the honor to be very faithfully, your ob't servant, 

(Signed) A. A. Curtis, Secretary to the Archbishop of Baltimore. 

New York, Feb. 6, 1880. 
The Huston Ship's Berth Co., Boston, 

Uentlemen : — We have pleasure iu stating that your Self-Leveling Berth which we introduced last No- 
vember in two of our steamers sailing to Ilavana and Mexico, the City of Washington and the City of Alex- 
andria, have satisfied us that tfiey are of very great service and comfort to those using them, as they pre- 
vent sea-sickness to those afflicted with this unfortunate malady, and also affords complete repose to per- 
sons not afflicted with this ill. We are so well pleased with these berths that we request that you place at 
once more on the City Alexandria in main saloon and also please have'more prepared soon to place on our 
other steamers. Yours very respectfully, (Signed) F. Alexandre & Sons. 

Capital Stock of Co., - - S500,000. 

H. T. McCLEAKX, Pres't and General Manager. F. A. HOBAUT, Sic'y and Treasurer. 

GENERAL OFFICE, 3S Congfress St., Boston. 

Bbanch Offices: i ^,^^^^'^y? Square, London, England. 
j 40 Broadway, New lork, 

H. D© F, YounSy -^gent, New York Office. 



WINEBURGH'S 



COMIERCIAL GOIDE OF MEXICO 

Embracing ■ oo ^ages of Useful Information 



This useful and iusf live encyclopedia upon Mexico and its commercial relations with 
the United States cannci but prove of great value to merchants who have business with that 
country, as well as to vucse who contemplate seeking a market for American products and 
manufactures. In Uiis work will be found 



A THOr lUGH INSIGHT OF THE MEXICAN TRADE, 

without which voidable losses occasioned by careless investments and injudicious con- 
signments as well as by missing valuable opportuuities must occur continually. Some gen- 
eral points of infoniirtion embraced in this Commercial Guide, are 



A sketch 
A C(^ 

au(. 

etc.. et 
A guide I 

the govt 



ico. her resources, her commercial, social and political statistics, 
urate translation of the Mexican Custom House Tariff, with laws 
verniug merchandise, products, steamers, passengers, emigrants 



-t mode of shipping merchandise with full instructions of 
ital requirements and observances. 
A li.st of merchandise a roducts of the United Stites suitable for that market. 
A general review of the jVx 'an railroads and history of concissions. 
.\ list of merchants of the L i.ited States engaged in the Mexican trade. 
\ review of the agricultural districts of Mexico. 
A review of the mining districts. 

A business directory of Mexico, containing an accurate list of merchants, wholesalers, 
retailers, bankers, brokers, planters, etc., in all parts of the Republic. 
This work, which is now in press, will be issued with the least possible delay, in view of 
which those who desire to subscribe should send in their orders at once. 

M. WINEBURGH & CO., Publishers, 

55 & 57 Beaver Street, New York. 



